With the winter season almost upon us it is time to discuss the re-occurring ice dams that frustrate many home owners. So lets start with the educational segment first.

Ice Dams are created when you have fairly large snowfall and the snow melts and re-freezes before being channeled away from your roof. This is usually caused by a warmer roof surface than the exterior temperature. This simply means that the temperature of your shingles is slightly above freezing when the outside temperature is below freezing. The “warmer” your roofs temperature is translates to larger ice dams. Non-functioning eaves troughs can also cause ice dams on your roof. Improper pitch or blockage due to debris etc will cause the appearance of ice dams.

Poor ventilation and insulation is the common cause of most ice dams and is the culprit for creating a “warm” roof in the winter months. Heat escapes from your heated living space and gathers in your attic. (Remember heat rises) Poor ventilation does not allow for the removal of this heat which remains trapped in your attic.

So now we have the 3 basic requirements to start building our ice dam. In review they are:

1. Snowfall
2. Heat leaking into attic area.
3. Poor ventilation allows accumulation of heat in attic.

We are going to address the heat leaking into your attic and then the poor ventilation.

Insulation

During most of my inspections in the Barrie, ON area I have come to notice one insulation deficiency that appears over and over again. People, either themselves or hired contractors, enter the attic to do work and never repair the damage they have done to the insulation. Most of my clients have never been in their attics and just assume that all is well. Pot lights are almost always an indication that someone has been in the attic and maybe it is just bad percentages but over 75% of homes I inspect have large trails in their blown in insulation and areas where instead of 10 to 11 inches of insulation, only 3. There was even a popular franchise inspection company that “bragged” that they put a “tag” in every corner of your attic. When two thirds of your R factor is missing from areas of your attic you can safely assume that you will have heat escaping into your attic. You don’t need to hire a home inspector to check your attic; most attics can be completely viewed from the access hatch with a standard spot light.

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When you cozy up next to a crackling fire on a cold winter day, you probably don’t realize that your fireplace is one of the most inefficient heat sources you can possibly use. It literally sends your energy dollars right up the chimney along with volumes of warm air. A roaring fire can exhaust as much as 679.6 cubic metres (24,000 cubic feet) of air per hour to the outside, which must be replaced by cold air coming into the house from the outside. Your heating system must warm up this air, which is then exhausted through your chimney. If you use your conventional fireplace while your central heating system is on, these tips can help reduce energy losses.

Fireplace Tips and Suggestions

• If you never use your fireplace, plug and seal the chimney flue.
• Check the seal on the flue damper and make it as snug as possible.
• Add caulking around the fireplace hearth.
• Keep your fireplace damper closed unless a fire is going. Keeping the damper open is like keeping a 1.2m (48”) window wide open during the winter; it allows warm air to go right up the chimney.
• When you use the fireplace, reduce heat loss by opening dampers in the bottom of the firebox (if provided) or open the nearest window slightly – approximately 2.5 cm (1”) – and close doors leading into the room. Lower the thermostat setting to between 10 C – 13 C (50° and 55°F).
• Install tempered glass doors and a heat-air exchange system that blows warmed air back into the room.
• Use grates made of C-shaped metal tubes to draw cool room air into the fireplace and circulate warm air back into the room.

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Here are some common sense tips and advice of things to do prior to the winter season arriving. It is better to be snuggled up in front of your fireplace once old man winter arrives, rather than rushing around repairing items that some fall maintenance would have prevented. So with that thought in mind please peruse the following list:

1) Furnace Inspection

· Make sure your furnace is in good working order. Make sure that the thermostat and pilot light are working properly and that the pipe bringing fuel to your furnace isn’t leaking or loose

· Stock up on furnace filters and change them monthly.

· Consider switching out your thermostat for a programmable thermostat.

· If your home is heated by a hot-water radiator, bleed the valves by opening them slightly and when water appears, close them.

· Remove all flammable material from the area surrounding your furnace.

2) Get the Fireplace Ready

· Cap or screen the top of the chimney to keep out rodents and birds. Check top of chimney for cracks in cap or mortar. Also check visible bricks and mortar for cracks. Have any cracks repaired prior to winter.

· If the chimney hasn’t been cleaned for a while, call a chimney sweep to remove soot and creosote or buy equipment and do it yourself.

· If your home is heated by a fireplace or wood stove, buy firewood or chop wood. Store it in a dry place away from the exterior of your home.

· Inspect the fireplace damper for proper opening and closing.

3) Check the Exterior, Doors and Windows

· Inspect exterior for crevice cracks and exposed entry points around pipes; seal them with exterior quality silicone caulking.

· Use weather stripping around older style doors to prevent cold air from entering the home and caulk exterior window joints to ensure no drafts are present.

· If your home has a basement, consider protecting its window wells by covering them with plastic shields. Ensure your window well drains are installed properly, covered with screen and then a layer of stone. They are tied into your weeping system and any debris could block your foundation weepers causing problems with your basement.

· Remove any un-needed screens and store until spring.

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Polyurethane Foams for Low Pressure Injection Crack Repair

What is the better choice: polyurethane or epoxy? Epoxy is the better choice if structural strength is required to be maintained. If the crack is only repaired to prevent water leakage then either product can accomplish this task.

Cause of Cracks

Lack of joints, to accommodate drying shrinkage and thermal movement during the construction phase is one of the major causes of concrete cracks. Settlement and overloading are also common causes of cracking. Cracks usually appear within the first month after construction. These cracks can leak as soon as they are formed or might expand and leak later. Crack can grow and cause problems as they expand.

How Cracks Grow

Moisture, which is the worst enemy of homes, enters the tiny cracks in the concrete and in colder weather, freezes, enlarging the crack. Also, movement of soils surrounding your home, through settling, can also cause expansion of your cracks. In extreme cases, soils that are unstable can overcome the inherent strength of concrete causing crack and expansion.

Cracks caused by construction, heat, freezing and settlement can be corrected by injection. Cracks caused by unstable soils must have soil problem stabilized prior to attempting injection corrective methods.

Low Pressure Injection

This method of injecting polymers into the concrete is adequate for repairs of cracks not involving high volumes of water. High-pressure injection is better suited for this type of application. Low pressure is defined as injection pressures between 20 to 40 psi and can be used with either ports or surface injection. Pressures as high as 250 psi may be used.

High Pressure Injection

1,000 to 10,000 psi utilizing injection packers usually placed in holes drilled at 45 degrees to intersect the interior of the crack. This is common method of repair using polyurethane foam. High cost of packers, clean up of excess, potential stress damage and dangers of using high pressure are overcome by using low-pressure injection methods.

The use of surface ports (with one-way check valves) together with low-pressure injection of a sealed crack eliminates these problems in most situations. The injection of high-density foam is an effective water proofing method.

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How much water do you think comes off your roof in a heavy rain storm?  Take a typical 1500 sq ft home and a rain storm that drops one inch of rain, this is equal to over 900 gallons of water. This water, all 900 gallons, leaves your roof by following your gutter system and down through downspouts to the ground. This is where most homes are sadly lacking.

Many homes have missing elbows on downspouts, which would allow water to run straight down your foundation.  If you have a basement, this can lead to damp walls or even water entry into basement. Once water has created a path it will tend to follow the same path unless remedial methods are used to re-direct it.

Every downspout should have an elbow and extension directing water away from your home. Water is the worst enemy of your home. Concrete pads are great; just remember to install them with the open end pointing away from your home.  Unbelievable, but I have come across numerous cases where these run off pads were installed like a dam, with the open side butted against the wall.  Wrong way; turn it around!

Small holes and depressions around your foundation should be filled and soil levelled to slope away from house. If installing patio stones or walkways along side of home, ensure that the y slope away from house. If a new house, increase slope away slightly to compensate for disturbed soil along side of house. This is very important because improper slope of soil around your home will direct water towards foundation year round. Eventually this will cause water damage to your home, spalling of concrete or water entry into your home.

Some homes have eaves troughs that discharge water across driveways and sidewalks. This can be dangerous to occupants and visitors in the winter season with ice being a problem. Diverting your run off underground is one solution to this dilemma. Ensure you run your drain lines deep enough not to freeze and that you have an adequate low spot to drain to.  Another good tip is to install a tee above drainpipe connect which allows the water to flow  out if drain line freezes. French drains are another option. This is just a barrel full of stone or gravel buried underground into which you water is directed.

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