Basement Exit Window

Basement Window Exit Requirements

Where a basement exit window is required confuses many people with many different thoughts on what is acceptable. Although I have written a number of articles on this subject I still come across Realtor’s who will offer their opinion on Requirements for Basement Windows based on “hearsay” vs the facts of the Ontario Building Code.  This type of confusion is encountered a lot when individuals, without any formal training, start advising home buyers on Building Code requirements when purchasing a home.

The biggest mistake I find people make is stating that each bedroom requires an “EXIT WINDOW”.  This is simply not true.  Although there are  requirements for light and ventilation, this is not part of exit requirements.  ( National Building Code does require a window in each bedroom )

The requirement for a properly-sized bedroom window has been around since 1980 and subsequent code changes since then have made it even easier to understand how a bedroom egress window is defined. As with any building project, a proper building permit is required and your drawings will be required to show location and size of windows. There is always some interpretation involved in Ontario Building Codes and Fire Codes, so to be safe consult with the Inspection Department and Fire Department prior to starting construction.

Basement Bedroom Exit Window – National Building Code
The National Building Code of Canada (NBCC), on which the Provincial Codes are based, has very clear requirements as it relates to bedroom windows and how the bedroom window serves three distinct purposes in the home:

  1. Light (at least five per cent of the floor area served)
  2. Ventilation (at least 0.28m² or 3 ft² or an adequate year-round mechanical ventilation)
  3. Emergency Escape: An Emergency Escape requires that each bedroom must have a door that leads directly to the exterior of the building or have a properly-sized egress window that can be opened from the inside without the use of keys, tools, hardware or special knowledge (unless this bedroom has a sprinkler system installed).

Ontario Building Code article 9.7.1.2. establishes the general requirement that all bedrooms must have at least one window that is large enough to be used as an exit in an emergency. The specific requirements are as follows:

  1. Except where the suite has a sprinkler, each bedroom or combination bedroom shall have at least one outside window or exterior door operable from the inside without the use of key, tools or special knowledge and without the removal of sashes or hardware.
  2. The window referred to in Sentence (1) shall provide and unobstructed opening of not less than 0.35 m² (542 in² or 3.8 ft²) in area with no dimension less than 380 mm (15 inches), and maintain the required opening during an emergency without the need for additional support.
  3. If the window referred to in Sentence (1) is provided with security bars, the security bars shall be operable from the inside without the use of any tools or special knowledge.

If a window well is required, it must be out from the window at least 550mm (about 22″) to provide safe passage. Awning style windows for example opening into a window well typically won’t work because they tend to obstruct clear passage unless the window well is unusually large.

It is further recommended that the bottom of any egress window opening or sill not be higher than 1.5m (5 feet) above the floor. Now this can be somewhat challenging for any bedroom in a basement, so some means of built-in furniture below the window to assist in the event of an emergency is required.

Egress Windows or Doors for Bedrooms (9.9.10.1)

  1. Except where a door on the same floor level as the bedroom provides direct access to the exterior, every floor level containing a bedroom in a suite shall be provided with at least one outside window that,
    1. is openable from the inside without the use of tools,
    2. provides an individual, unobstructed open portion having a minimum area of 0.35 m² (3.8 ft²) with no dimension less than 380 mm (15 inches), and
    3. maintains the required opening described in Clause (b) without the need for additional support.
  2. Except for basement areas, the window required in Sentence (1) shall have a maximum sill height of 1,000 mm (39 inches) above the floor.
  3. When sliding windows are used, the minimum dimension described in Sentence (1) shall apply to the openable portion of the window.
  4. Where the sleeping area within a live/work unit is on a mezzanine with no obstructions more than 1,070 mm above the floor, the window required in Sentence (1) may be provided on the main level of the live/work unit provided the mezzanine is not more than 25% of the area of the live/work unit or 20 m², whichever is less, and an unobstructed direct path of travel is provided from the mezzanine to this window.
  5. Where a window required in Sentence (1) opens into a window well, a clearance of not less than 550 mm (22 inches) shall be provided in front of the window.
  6. Where the sash of a window referred to in Sentence (5) swings towards the window well, the operation of the sash shall not reduce the clearance in a manner that would restrict escape in an emergency.
  7. Where a protective enclosure is installed over the window well referred to in Sentence (5), such enclosure shall be openable from the inside without the use of keys, tools or special knowledge of the opening mechanism.

The required window size for egress is the same between the National Building Code and the Ontario Building code. Window well requirements are the same as well.

The NBCC details specific size requirements as:

Windows referred to above shall provide unobstructed openings with areas not less than 0.35 m2 (3.8ft2), with no dimension less than 380 mm (15 in.). To ensure the unobstructed opening meets these criteria, you should measure between the sashes, jambs, sills, and opening mechanisms.

The significant difference between the National and Ontario codes is that a means of egress is required for each bedroom with the National Building Code, while only one means of egress per level is required with the Ontario Building Code. Also, the National Building Code requires the sill height from the floor to be no more than 1,500 mm (59 inches), while the Ontario Building Code requires the sill height to be no more than 1,000 mm (39 inches).

Check with your Building Inspection Department

Before starting any renovation project it is always best to check with your local Building Department for required permits and drawings.  You can also obtain advice on what you can legally do or not do.  When renovating it is always better and safer to follow required practices rather than having to redo work or create an unsafe environment for your family.

This information on Basement Window Egress Requirements is brought to you by Canada’s Largest Quit Smoking Directory.

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Basement Bedroom Exit Requirements  (  most people get this one wrong )

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TSSA Above Ground Fuel Tanks

Property owners have a legal responsibility to maintain fuel oil storage tanks and to clean up any leaks or spills that may occur, whether the fuel oil tanks are situated underground, in a basement or above ground. Fuel oil leaks and spills can cause significant environmental damage and the costs to clean up contaminated soil and groundwater on the property and its surroundings can be extensive.

This legal responsibility and potential for legal liability has resulted in increased insurance claims made by property owners with underground fuel oil tanks. This has caused an increase in homeowners’ insurance concerns, including potential denial of coverage.

The most commonly used tanks for fuel oil are steel containers that hold about 1,000 liters of fuel. The problem with many metal fuel oil tanks is that they rust from the inside out as a result of condensation accumulation inside the tank over several years. It is difficult to tell if a tank is leaking and underground fuel oil tanks present a particular concern because of the inability to determine their condition (they are difficult to inspect) combined with the probability that they will leak (the older the tank; the stronger the likelihood that it will leak).

Fuel Oil Regulations and Codes

Ontario has strict regulations and codes governing the handling and storage of fuel oil that require registration of all existing underground fuel oil tanks and dictate their removal or upgrading according to a phased in four year schedule based on the age of the tank.

All underground fuel tank systems that have not been used for two or more years (and no longer intended to be used), must be removed, no matter what the age. Furthermore, all underground tanks over 5,000 liters are required to be leak tested annually (at least monthly, when level 2 or level 1 leak detection is used).

All existing above ground and underground fuel oil tank systems are required to undergo annual maintenance (maintenance should also be in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions) and to have a comprehensive inspection at least once every ten years. The handling and storage of fuel oil is governed under the Technical Standards and Safety Act – Ontario Regulation 213/01 (“Fuel Oil Regulation”), and administered under the Ontario Installation Code for Oil Burning Equipment I (Based on CSA B139, with Ontario Amendments), Edition/2006 (“Ontario Fuel Oil Code”).

The Fuel Oil Regulation defines two types of fuel oil storage tanks and a tank system:

Above ground tank – “means a tank that is installed at or above grade level within a building or within a secondary containment, but does not include a tank that is in direct contact with backfill material”. Free standing fuel oil tanks in basements that are not in direct contact with backfill material are considered, by the TSSA, as above ground tanks.

Underground tank – “means a buried tank or partially buried tank that is in direct contact with earth or backfill”. The TSSA does not consider fuel oil tanks that are in basements to be underground tanks unless they are in direct contact with backfill material. Tank system – “means an above ground or underground tank, and includes all piping, valves, fittings, pumps and other equipment associated with the tank”.

Underground Fuel Oil Tanks

Under the Fuel Oil Regulation fuel oil distributors cannot supply fuel oil to an underground tank unless the tank is registered with the TSSA. This requirement has been in effect since May 1, 2002. There is no charge for registering an underground fuel oil tank and the application form (Application for an Ontario Registration to Operate/Install and Underground Fuel Oil Tank, Form No. 09143) is available by calling the TSSA 416-734-3300 or toll free at 1-877-682-8772 or online through the TSSA at http://www.tssa.org/regulated/fuels/fuelsForms.asp.Once the application form is processed, the applicant will receive a registration number from the TSSA. The registration number can then be provided to the fuel oil distributor, to ensure an uninterrupted supply of fuel oil.

Deadlines for Removal or Upgrade of Underground Fuel Oil Tank Systems

The requirements for removal or upgrade of underground fuel oil tank systems are set under the Ontario Fuel Oil Code. Removal – All existing single-wall steel underground tank systems that are 25 years old and more as of October 1, 2001, or of unknown age, and not cathodically protected, are required to be withdrawn from service and removed. All underground fuel tank systems that have not been used for two or more years (and no longer intended to be used), must be removed, no matter what the age. However, where removal of the tank is not feasible an application for Variance may be made to the TSSA.

Removal or upgrade – There are specific dates set by the Ontario Fuel Oil Code when underground fuel oil tank systems are required to be removed or upgraded based on the age of the tank, and outlined below:

Schedule for Upgrading Existing Underground Tank Systems:

Deadline to Remove or Upgrade*

Age of Tank

25 years and more, or unknown                 October 1, 2006

20-24   years                                              October 1, 2007

10-19    years                                             October 1, 2008

0-9       years                                              October 1, 2009

* Upgrade includes adding approved leak detection, corrosion protection, spill containment, and overfill protection device.

Requirements for Removal of Underground Fuel Oil Tank Systems

Property owners are responsible for the costs of removing their underground fuel oil tank. The removal must be performed by a TSSA registered fuel oil contractor holding a Petroleum Equipment Mechanic 2 (PM-2) license. The TSSA must be notified once the underground tank has been removed and the property owner must have an environmental assessment report completed by a Professional Engineer, a Professional Geoscientist, a Professional Agrologist, or a Chartered Chemist. If a leak of fuel oil is confirmed, the Spills Action Center of the Ministry of the Environment must be notified of the leak and the property owner is responsible for the cost of the required clean up of contamination.

•A list of TSSA registered fuel oil contractors located in various municipalities can be found at: http://www.tssa.org/regulated/fuels/heating/heatingcontractors/

•To find a PM-2 Contractor in a specific municipality, contact the Ontario Petroleum Contractors’ Association (OPCA) at www.opcaonline.org or Phone: (705) 735-9437 or Toll Free: 1-866-360-6722

•To report a spill contact Spills Action Centre of the Ministry of the Environment at Phone: 416-325-3000 or Toll Free: 1-800-268-6060

Requirements for Upgrading Underground Fuel Oil Tank Systems

Some underground fuel oil tank systems may require an entirely new system in order to conform to the Ontario Fuel Oil Code; others may only need specific upgrades to the corrosion protection, overfill protection, spill containment’s, added leak detection, etc. Underground fuel oil tank systems that are not removed must be upgraded with approved overfill protection, corrosion protection, spill containment and leak detection. Prior to upgrading, an underground steel tank must be subjected to a precision leak test.

Application for Variance for Underground Fuel Oil Tank

The TSSA will consider an application for “Variance for abandonment of an underground fuel tank in place” where removal of an underground tank is not feasible due to certain circumstances, such as a structural consideration. An example of a structural consideration is where an underground tank is situated such that its removal would cause collapse of a retaining wall of a house.

However, the TSSA does not consider an underground tank situated beneath a driveway, back yard, front lawn, or garage, etc. to be a structural consideration. The Variance application process normally takes several weeks because it involves extensive review and research by the TSSA in order to determine whether the tank must be removed or it can remain in place, with conditions. The process begins with completion of the Variance Application (Application for a Variance/Deviation, Form No. 09533) and submission of the application fee and an environmental assessment report to the Environmental Services office of theTSSA. Further information, including the Variance Application form,”Environmental Info Sheet” and fee information can be found at http://www.tssa.org/regulated/fuels/environment/fuelsEnviron04.asp

Above Ground Fuel Oil Tanks

There are no age limit considerations specified in the code or regulation requirements to dictate the replacement of above ground tanks, provided the tank is not leaking.

An existing above ground tank is considered, by the TSSA, as “approved” provided the tank was installed in accordance with the Ontario Fuel Oil Code that was applicable at the time of

Rusted-Oil-Tank---TSSA-Inspection
Oil Tank Will Not Pass Inspection

installation. If an above ground tank is not being used, the tank and all associated piping of fluid content must be emptied and vapour-free; but it does not have to be removed unless the tank is of a capacity greater than 2,500 litres and unused for more than 3 years.

If an above ground fuel oil tank is removed, the TSSA must be notified; an assessment report must be completed setting out the extent of any fuel that has escaped to the surrounding environment; and any contamination must be cleaned up.

Annual Maintenance

All existing above ground and underground fuel oil storage tank systems are required to undergo annual maintenance (unless otherwise specified by manufacturer’s instructions), performed by a TSSA certified oil burner technician (OBT); otherwise fuel oil distributors cannot supply fuel oil. Such services include visually inspecting the tank system for leaks and testing and servicing the oil burning equipment to ensure it is operating properly. It is the property owner’s responsibility to arrange for an inspection.

Leak test – When level 2 or level 1 leak detection is used, a leak test shall be conducted at least monthly.

Comprehensive inspection – All existing fuel oil storage tanks (above ground and underground) and associated appliances (furnace, boiler, water heater, etc.) are required to undergo a comprehensive inspection by a TSSA certified oil burner technician at least once every 10 years, otherwise fuel oil distributors cannot supply fuel oil. Furthermore, a fuel oil distributor is required to prepare a report of each inspection made and retain the report until the next inspection and report are completed. Due to the large number of inspections that were required to be completed by fuel oil distributors, the TSSA approved the following deadlines for comprehensive inspections (from page 2 of the TSSA Update (Fuels Safety Edition) Spring 2006

•May 1, 2004 – all fuel oil distributors required all new customers to undergo an immediate comprehensive inspection

•May 1, 2006 – certain groups of fuel oil distributors required existing customers to undergo a comprehensive inspection

•May 1, 2007 – all systems that previously underwent a basic inspection are required to undergo a follow up comprehensive inspection by May 1, 2007.If “unacceptable conditions” are found and there is an “immediate hazard”, the fuel oil distributor is required to immediately cease supplying fuel oil and to take such steps as are reasonable in the circumstances to shut off the supply of oil to the tank facility, system or appliance. If “unacceptable conditions” are found and they do not pose an “immediate hazard”, the fuel oil distributor may supply fuel oil provided that the owner of the property takes corrective actions, up to 90 days of receiving notice, to conform to the Code (Section 24 of the Fuel Oil Regulation). However, due to the high number of “unacceptable conditions” being found and the resulting backlog in correcting such conditions, the TSSA extended the 90 day time period to 365 days provided that a variance has been granted to extend the deadline – (TSSA Advisory, ref. no. FS-05505, dated November 8, 2005 )

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Keep Water Out of Your Basement

Tips to Keep Water Out of your Basement

 

Basements can let in water, especially during and after heavy rains. The average 1500 square foot home can deliver about 1500 L of water from a storm that drops one inch of rain. This then is dispersed using your downspouts. This indicates the necessity of ensuring water is directed away from your foundation. Sealing basements from excess moisture is a great way to add an extra layer of protection against the elements. Problems resulting from water leaks and moisture damage can result in thousands of dollars worth of damage. Here are some tips that will help you seal your basement properly.

1- Moisture can enter your basement in many different ways. Each house is unique as to its construction, landscaping, gutter system and natural or man made systems for water drainage. When you are sealing your basement you need to keep this in mind. Water can enter your basement through cracks in the concrete and sometimes seep right through the concrete, especially during heavy rains. Also, since concrete is porous, it allows a certain amount of water and moisture into your basement. To combat the water  and moisture, people often use a dehumidifier. However, this method only masks the problem. Sealing the basement offers a much more lasting solution. Also having excess  moisture can lead to mould, wet insulation and frost on the inside walls of your home.

2- To seal the basement properly you need to first make sure that all sources of moisture inside the basement are removed. One common way moisture forms in the basement is through the dryer.  Drying clothes inside your house is also another method of increasing moisture content and humidity in your home. Make sure the dryer vent discharges the moist humid air outside. The second way is through the air conditioning ducts. Make sure you insulate them properly to prevent any condensation from forming. Most people will block off their air conditioning ducts in the summer while using central air conditioning. This saves on energy and makes your system more efficient.

Divert the Rainwater

3- The next step to sealing basements is to make sure any rainwater that falls doesn’t go near the foundation. You may need to install a series of gutters and drains to accomplish this, depending on your situation. Splash pads are a good idea for directing the water to nearby swales or natural drainage areas. Ensure your pad is facing the right way….open side to where you want the water diverted too.  This sounds funny, but you have no idea of the amount of splash pads I find installed that keep the water right against the foundation, the direct opposite of what you want to achieve. I also recommend using Tee’s on any downspouts that empty into drains or French drains. This allows for water to spill out the open Tee when the underground drain is frozen, saving many downspouts from splitting when the backed up water freezes.

4- After you divert the rainwater away from the foundation, the next step to sealing foundations is to make sure openings for any pipes, ducts, etc are properly sealed. Do a thorough inspection of all pipes and ducts to make sure nothing is leaking. Although you may not see any leaks, keep in mind that even the smallest bit of moisture can be damaging, so seal everything with the proper caulking material. Also make sure you caulk and seal any holes in the corners and in the ceiling.  Most houses have many opening in their vapour barriers which can cause moisture to form on exterior wall and even wet the insulation.  Make sure all vapour barriers joints are lapped and sealed with Tuck tape to ensure integrity of barrier.

Install A Dehumidifier

It may take a while to find every area that needs to be sealed, but the more meticulous you are the better your chances of finding everything. After you seal everything, it is a good idea to install a dehumidifier for extra insurance. If you have a recurrent problem with flooding, it is also a good idea to purchase and install a sump pump. If you buy a submersible sump  pump you can usually seal of the sump pump pit which can be a source of odour and moisture.

Written by Roger Frost

Roger Frost is a professional home inspector who has been a registered builder with HUDAC and is also a member of the Ontario Building Officials Association. He has obtained all five building certification courses for Part 9, the House, which covers every aspect of building a home and also has some Part 3 Code courses for Commercial inspections. The Barrie Home inspector also offers Free Wett certification with every inspection. Call 705-795-8255  to book your “Risk Free” home inspection.

Insight to a Home Inspection

Insight to a Home Inspection – by Roger Frost

There are many Associations for Home Inspectors to belong to in Canada and the U.S.   Most Home Inspection Associations require their members to follow  their Standards of Practice and follow their Code of Ethics.  These are both available on every professional home inspection association website.

The typical Standards of Practice are the typical minimum standards of performance and will also define and clarify the purpose, terms, conditions, exclusions related to the home inspection.  The Standard Code of Ethics usually  lays out the home inspectors duty to act in a fair, honest and unbiased manner when conducting a home inspection.   This is where a Realtor giving business to a “favorite home inspector” because of “favorable reports” would be considered unethical.

Typical Standards of Practice do not vary much between Associations, although some try to influence potential clients by calling their Standards “National Standards” or other inflated titles.  Every home inspector basically looks at every visible item in your home and notes deficiency and will usually suggest a corrective action.  Some home inspectors offer extra services such as Thermal Imaging or Mould Testing.  Experience is still considered the biggest asset a home inspector can have.

Wikipedia defines a  home inspection as:  ” A home inspection is a limited, non-invasive examination of the condition of a home, often in connection with the sale of that home. Home inspections are usually conducted by a home inspector who has the training and certifications to perform such inspections. The inspector prepares and delivers to the client a written report of findings. The client then uses the knowledge gained to make informed decisions about their pending real estate purchase. The home inspector describes the condition of the home at the time of inspection but does not guarantee future condition, efficiency, or life expectancy of systems or components.”

This is a Standard “Boiler plate” type of description that most professional home inspectors have included in their Pre-Inspection Agreement which they will require the client to sign before conducting the inspection.  The Pre-Inspection Agreement will usually stipulate what and what not is included in the inspection.  Having a client sign a Pre-Inspection Agreement does not protect a home inspector  from negligence in performing their duties though.

A Professional Home Inspection will usually start of the roof, which in Canada, can only fully be inspected for about nine months of the year, due to ice and snow coverage.  Veteran Realtors will usually have the dates available when the roof was last re-shingled when applicable.  The Exterior of home is then visually inspected with attention being paid to grading and any probable water concerns. The cladding, windows, doors, exterior electrical, exterior decks and patios are all inspected for deficiencies and pictures are taken of any issues or problems noted.

The basement is the hub of your homes systems and this is where you should pay close attention to what your home inspector is looking at and ask questions about anything you are un-sure of.  You heating, a/c, plumbing, hot water, structural, electrical systems are typically located in your basement and this means that a lot of money you  are investing is located there.

Another  important feature involving basement inspections is the famous, “Do It Yourself” renovation.  The majority of home owners do not obtain a “Building Permit” for basement renovations.  This immediately tells the home inspector that the framing, electrical, plumbing and insulation etc was never inspected prior to being covered with drywall etc.  This common occurrence can have huge ramifications to the home buyer, such as;  problems in future with Building Department, incorrectly installed plumbing or electrical which may require changes or replacement.   A great example of this  is when homeowner uses steel framing but does not use proper grommets or hold offs for electrical cable.  To repair this the entire wall would have to be opened up to install the electrical cables correctly.  Some homeowners will tap of bus bars on main panel rather than upgrade service panel which again can be an expensive repair to bring panel up to electrical code requirements.

Plumbing is another area where “Do It Yourself” home owners excel at.  Illegal venting and lack of venting are frequent offenders.   Hooking up sump pumps  into municipal drains can get you a hefty fine from your municipality if caught.  Whether plumbing, heating or electrical deficiencies, it seems some home owners are only restricted by their imaginations when installing or modifying  a homes systems.

The list of deficiencies your home inspector may find in any home is too long to detail.  This is why hiring an experience home inspector is a great investment decision when purchasing a home.  The home inspection fee is worth the Peace of Mind you will receive after reading your report.   Just one identified deficiency in any of homes major systems would most likely save you a lot more money than you ever would pay for a home inspection.  The Home Buyer always has to keep in mind that Home Inspectors are not psychic and cannot un-cover a deficiency if the Home Seller is actively covering up or hiding deficiencies.   Even water leaks in basements can be hidden by patching and fresh paint and if they don’t declare their knowledge when listing their home, the home buyer may be in for a nasty surprise in the Spring.

Many people are complaining about the use or value of the SPIS.  This form,  promoted by the Ontario Real Estate Association (OREA), the seller’s property information statement (SPIS) continues to be a source of never-ending business for litigation lawyers and endless grief for unlucky buyers and sellers who are being swept into the bottomless pit of lawsuits because they used it.

CAVEAT EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE   An educated consumer is a smart consumer!

Concrete and Your Home

Concrete and Your Home by the Barrie Building Inspector

Tarion reports that each year a significant percent of basements are constructed with serious defects.  At the same time, home buyers are demanding a higher standard of quality workmanship and moisture control than ever before.  Part of this  is due to consumer education by Home Inspections, TV Programs and articles on poor workmanship.

Concrete is basically a mixture of cement, water and aggregates.  The paste, formed by cement and water, coats the surface of sand and stone, binding them together, to form concrete.

ASTM’s cement and concrete standards are instrumental in the evaluation and testing of concrete, cement, and aggregates. Concrete can have different properties depending upon the mixture that is used in creating it, which contains cement, chemical admixtures, and aggregates. These ingredients are mixed with water to create concrete which is used as a primary construction material in buildings.

One simple on site test typically performed in the concrete slump test.  The slump test measures the consistency of the concrete in that specific batch. This test is performed to check the consistency of freshly made concrete. It is used to indicate the degree of wetness. Workability of concrete is mainly affected by consistency i.e. wetter mixes will be more workable than drier mixes, but concrete of the same consistency may vary in workability. It is also used to determine consistency between individual batches.

Regular concrete, such as used in residential construction, has a compressive strength rating, varying from 10 MPa (megapascal) to 40 MPa  (5800 psi).  Concrete cures for a period of 28 days when it will reach approximately 90% of its final strength.   Controlling the moisture during the first three days is critical to preventing cracking and shrinkage.  Allowing the moisture to evaporate too quickly can cause tensile stresses which can result in more shrinkage cracks.  Keeping concrete damp during the curing process minimizes cracking.  Spraying water over concrete and covering with plastic sheeting are two common methods used for residential construction. Concrete can continue curing and increasing in strength for up to 3 years.

Air entrainment is recommended for nearly all concretes, principally to improve resistance to freezing when exposed to water and deicing chemicals. Air-entrained concrete contains billions of microscopic air cells per cubic foot. These air pockets relieve internal pressure on the concrete by providing tiny chambers for water to expand into when it freezes. Air-entrained concrete is produced through the use of air-entraining portland cement, or by the introduction of air-entraining agents, under careful engineering supervision as the concrete is mixed on the job. The amount of entrained air is usually between 4 percent and 7 percent of the volume of the concrete, but may be varied as required by special conditions. Entrained Concrete

Chemical admixtures are the ingredients in concrete other than portland cement, water, and aggregate that are added to the mix immediately before or during mixing. Producers use admixtures primarily to reduce the cost of concrete construction; to modify the properties of hardened concrete; to ensure the quality of concrete during mixing, transporting, placing, and curing; and to overcome certain emergencies during concrete operations.

Your finish of the exterior of your basement determines the amount of MPa required by the Ontario Building Code.  Most modern homes have a damp-proof coating, which was installed to meet local building code requirements as the home was being constructed. This is usually a tar or asphalt based product applied to the exterior or your home.  This product is not to be confused with water proofing, which is a completely different process.   Damp proofing allows the concrete to cure without moisture entering during this process.  Many damp proofing will fail after a couple of years and if basement is subjected to high water table, will most likely leak in some form.

Many new home buyers confuse the dimple wrap placed around most basements as a water proof membrane. The dimple design of the wrap creates an air gap between the membrane and foundation wall so exterior drainage water or damp/wet earth is never in contact with the poured concrete or cement block foundation wall. Instead water will be drained to the weeping or drain tiles, leaving the foundation walls dry.

Many new home builders will repair any significant cracks by injection of foam or epoxy.  Having a Pre-Delivery Inspection can identify these issues that you may miss and usually once that window of opportunity is missed,  your on your own.  Tarion will not require builder to repair crack unless it is wider than 1/2 inch or water is entering home.  If you are in the Barrie area,  call the Barrie Home Inspector, to accompany you on your Pre-Delivery inspection.  It’s your Peace of Mind that is at stake.

Many custom home are using ICF building process to construct their foundations Insulated Concrete Forms may use polystyrene blocks or panels as the formwork into which reinforcing steel and concrete are placed. These polystyrene forms are left in place to give your home an exceptional R-value. Their history dates back to the period after World War II, when blocks of treated wood fibers held together by cement were used in Switzerland.   Some of the benefits of ICF construction is the strength, disaster resistant, mold and rot resistant, sound deadening and energy efficient.  Some companies refer to the lack of chemicals used compared to wood framing where there may be VOC’s present from glues etc.

Water Problems and Solutions for Home Owners

Water Problems and Solutions for Home Owners

 – Most water problems that homeowners encounter can usually be by controlling water above ground. Simple but effective means of controlling those above-ground problems may prevent structural damage to your home as well as dry up those basement damp areas. Most home owners are un-aware that saturated soil increases the soil pressure on the basement wall which can the lead to cracks, shifts, collapses and other structural problems. Start first by looking to the roof,. An inch of water on 1,000 square feet of roof amounts to about 623 gallons of water. A foot of compacted snow on that same roof could contain up to 4 inches of water, or nearly 2,500 gallons. Getting all that water away from the house is a big first step to preventing basement problems and can prevent needless costs in repairs. Ensuring your eaves trough have extension or splash pads that adequately remove water from around your house is the first step in preventing water intrusion or damage to your home. A slope of about 1 inch per foot drainage near the foundation wall is usually adequate. Also, the ground should be sloped to carry the water away from the downspout discharge.

In addition to proper drainage above ground, a properly installed drainage system below ground is important to keeping your basement dry. A properly installed drainage system at the house foundation will prevent many water problems from entering your basement and eliminate saturated soil conditions next to the wall. A study of leakage problems showed that more than 90 percent were due to improperly installed drainage systems. The engineer says a properly installed foundation drainage system includes drainpipes placed alongside the footing. In areas with high water tables, a drainage system can also be installed around the inside of the footing and under the basement floor. Using granular material to allow the movement of water and filtering material to keep soil from plugging drain pipes is essential to keeping the system functioning for the life of the house. Granular backfill should be used next to basement walls, he notes. Using soils that don’t drain well can cause pressure on the walls if the soils become saturated. Most contractors now use a dimpled wrap installed against the foundation ensuring water drains down to weeping tile thus preventing hydraulic pressure from building against foundation walls. Poor drainage will also increase the potential for moisture or water vapor to move through the wall into the basement.

In certain areas, that moisture can carry minerals that are detrimental to the concrete. Basement walls that have had water or moisture leaks will usually leave an effervescent stain which is typically non-removable. Homeowners and home inspectors always view effervescence as indication of water penetration.

Window wells also need to be correctly constructed with drains linked to the foundation drains. Soil elevation in the window well should be several inches below bottom of window and sloped to the drain. The cost of installing the drainage system during new construction is minimal and is minimum building code requirement. As a home inspector window wells are usually an area where there is some deficiency that is noted on inspection report.

Window drains are usually installed in two ways; one is to place window well drain on top of foundation weeping tile and then fill with clean stone, thereby preventing entry and possible blockage from debris; two is to connect window well drain with Tee into foundation weeping tile and close off top of window drain with mesh sock or other means of preventing debris entry. As a home inspector I find many window well drains that are open and partially filled with leaves and toys etc. A blocked window well drain will allow build-up of water in heavy rain or snow melt and could enter basement windows.

Many homes have in ground drains for roof drainage discharge. These usually work well in warm months but in winter they are prone to freezing. I always recommend to my clients that they install a Tee at the top of ground drain which will serve as run off if ground drain is frozen but water is melting on roof. As the ground is the last are to un-thaw water will back up downspout and then freeze at night, installing a Tee will prevent this.

Professional home inspectors can identify problems and potential problems before buying a house or before major and expensive repairs are required. Always check your home inspectors qualifications prior to hiring, CAVEAT EMPTOR – BUYER BEWARE