Pex Plumbing—an acronym for cross-linked, polyethylene water supply piping. The new piping system used essentially plastic piping to carry water into and through the new home. To connect the plastic (PEX) piping, the piping system also notably used brass fittings and couplers.
WHAT IS THE PROBLEM WITH PEX?
The principal problem is the use of the brass fittings and couplings. Is the use of brass couplings and fittings always bad? No, not if the amount of zinc used to make the brass is less than 15%. If the brass couplings and fittings have more than 15% –say 30% to 33% — of zinc, then the brass—in the presence of water flow suffused with sulfates, carbonates, chlorides, fluoridates and dissolved oxygen — begins to literally disintegrate: i.e., the walls of the brass couplings and fittings—especially on the “hot-water” side– begin to lose their zinc. The process is called “de-zincification.”
On October 16, 2006, a Canadian manufacturer named IPEX was first sued in Clark County, Nevada, in a state-based, class-action lawsuit pertaining to the use of the Kitec fittings that had allegedly failed. (Kitec was a plumbing system that had enjoyed great popularity among developers in the mid-1990s.) One of many specification documents that had been obtained during legal discovery in that lawsuit revealed that certain of the brass fittings of the Kitec Composite and Fitting System contained more than 32% levels of zinc. There was a partial settlement awarded of 90 million dollars in favor of the home owners. Often, homes with Kitec® plumbing will have stickers tha say “Kitec” or “Plumbetter.” Thus, if you find such as sticker in your electrical panel box, it is likely that your home contains Kitec® brass fittings.
Recently a settlement has been reached with Zurin Pex, Inc. and Zurn Industries LLC concerning brass crimp fittings made of brass that were manufactured or sold between 1996 and 2010. The settlement covers possible fitting leaks, occlusion and damaged caused by alleged corrosion.
The plaintiffs in this case alleged that the F1807 Fiittings were defective and caused or could cause water leaks, which result in damage to property. Zurn denies any wrongdoing but has decided to settle these claims.
Zurn’s yellow brass F1807 Fittings (known as QestPEX Crimp System, Qicksert fittings, and Qick/Sert insert fittings) were stamped with “Qpex” and can be located at joints in the plastic pipe. F1807 Fittings are secured to the pipe by copper crimp rings or stainless steel clamps. The F1807 Fittings were used for a variety of applications including, without limitation, hot and cold water distribution in plumbing applications and radiant heating systems in homes, residences, buildings or other structures. Please note that the fittings at issue in this litigation are no longer sold. Zurn stopped selling F1807 Fittings in 2010.
There is also a lawsuit in progress against Uponor’s PEX Brass fittings which are alleged to contain a design and manufacturing defect which causes the fittings to fail prematurely, sometimes within months of installation. The Uponor fittings in question will not have the company’s name on them. Rather, they will be stamped on the side of the fitting with either “P Pex” or “MB Pex.” The stainless steel clamps which hold the pipe onto the fitting may also be stamped with “P Pex” on the side. The fittings are made of brass; plastic fittings made by Uponor are not subject to the failure described above. You are urged to contact us through the form on the right if you have experienced failure of plumbing fittings, even if you are unsure of the manufacturer. – Read More about Pex Plumbing Problems
In Ontario the home owner is responsible for maintaining their septic system. Failure to properly maintain your septic system can lead to contaminated ground water. That is why if your source of drinking water is a well you should have it tested on a regular basis.
Most potential purchasers will require any maintenance or pumping information you have available for both your well and septic system. The typical septic system consists of a septic tank and a leaching bed.
Since the 1970’s most septic systems have consisted of perforated pipes surrounded by stone and sand. If the sand is not available on site it would have to be imported in. The field has a biofilm at the bottom of the stone and sand which is the final filter before the effluent enters the natural soil.
All the waste water from your home goes to your septic tank. The primary chamber allows all the solids to settle before the water moves to the second chamber where any remaining particles should settle. The baffle prevents any floating particles from entering your bed. The expected life span of a septic tank is approximately 30 years. Over use can shorten it life span considerably which is why it is important that a system be properly sized for the house it is serving.
You should keep all toxic and hazardous chemicals out of your septic tank system. Avoid washing coffee grounds and other food items down your drain. Grease and cooking oils create a layer of scum in your septic tank and should not be disposed of down your drain. Plastics, dental floss, paper towels, tampons, cigarette butts and kitty litter should not be disposed of by your toilet.
A quick check of the septic tank can determine whether you need a plumber of a septic pumper. If your septic tank is full to the lid then your drainage field has a problem. If the tank is down 6 -8 inches check the inlet to see if there is any clogging from grease or other products.
Using a garbage disposal can increase your solids by as much as 50% and are not recommended for use in septic tanks. Water softeners pump large amounts of water into your septic system and the salt can be harmful to the bacteria in your tank.
There are two types of Tertiary Treatment systems, that must be approved by the Building Materials Evaluation Commission prior to use in Ontario, passive and aerobic systems. The passive system filters the sewage to produce the required final effluent and the aerobic system has an active blower which adds air to sewage increasing bacterial growth.
When purchasing a new property ask your realtor for drawings or site plans showing location and the date the septic system was installed. Most municipalities or health departments keep these records on file. Having you septic tank pumped and inspected by a trained member of Ontario Association of Sewage Industry Services should be done prior to purchasing property.
Septic tank inspections. The standard septic tank and weeping tile system is always underground and hidden from view. A typical septic system has four main components: a pipe from the home, a septic tank, a drain field, and the soil. Many times I have been present when an individual has done an inspection on a septic tank while I was performing the home inspection. Some septic inspectors just turned on the water and lifted the covers and determined system was in good condition. As a home inspector I always recommend that the buyer of the property have their septic tank pumped out by a licensed installer who would then be able to make an educated assessment of the tank and weeping system from visual observation of the tanks contents and through years of septic installation and pumping experience. Some inspectors will use a sight glass to obtain a sample of tanks solids but seeing the contents of entire tank allows a more accurate assessment in my mind.
A septic system collects, treats and disposes of your homes wastewater and solids supplied by homes plumbing. Solids are partially broken down into sludge within a septic tank and are separated from effluent (water) and scum (fat, oil and grease). Effluent regularly exits the tank into a drain field where it is naturally filtered by bacteria and reentered into the groundwater. Scum and sludge must be pumped periodically and should never enter the drain field. Bacteria is an important part of your septic system and a home owner has to be careful with any chemical use which may delete bacteria from septic tank.
If properly designed, constructed and maintained, your septic system can provide long-term, effective treatment of household waste water. The contents of the septic tank should be pumped every two to three years or when the total depth of sludge and scum exceeds one-third of the liquid depth of the tank. Ensure everyone using your homes plumbing system is aware of articles not to be put into a septic system. A partial list is: gasoline or chemicals, paper towels, dental floss, anything that can float, cigarettes, diapers, sanitary napkins, and plastics. Any object that can float will end up in your septic weeping tile and will eventually cause failure. Garbage disposal units can generate a lot more sludge and if deciding to install one anyway, one should look at increasing size of tank.
Replacing your septic tank and/or weeping bed can be a very expensive proposition. Every year the health department makes septic system requirements more restrictive and costly. In the old days you could just trench out your bed, throw in some stone, lay your weeping tile or pipe and fill it back up. Not so anymore, the health department will typically want you to install a bed system which can start at around 15 to 20 thousand dollars. If you are in a wet area then they might require a raised bed to be installed and then you will require a sewage lift pump. It is far easier to maintain and look after your system than have to install a new one.
The Barrie Home Inspector is available for advice on your septic tank inspection. We list experienced local septic tank installers who can pump out and assess your system on our website. Always ensure you hire an experienced professional for your both your home inspection and septic tank inspection.
Home Plumbing Inspections. Bathtubs and lavatories can have overflows installed. These two fixtures are often used without close observation. A person preparing to take a bath will typically turn on the water and leave while the tub is filling up. If left for a long time, the tub water may rise to a height where the overflow will take the excess water to the drain, preventing flooding of the area. Many tubs are capable of supplying water at rates greater than the flow rate of the overflow. With such fixtures, overflowing and flooding may not be prevented.
The bidet is a small bathing fixture used by both sexes. It is not designed for the elimination of human waste, but for cleaning the perineal area, and other body parts, including feet. It is typically equipped with a water spray that directs water upward in a jet towards a body part.
In the past, the standard required lavatories to have an overflow. That is no longer the standard. The overflow is now an option of the manufacturer. The reason for not requiring an overflow at a lavatory is because of the lack of use of the overflow. The lack of use causes bacterial and micro-organism growth.
Sink waste outlets should have a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches (38 mm). Most kitchen sinks have an opening of 3-1/2 inches (89 mm) in diameter. A food waste grinder has a standard opening of 3-1/2 inches (89 mm), and so do most kitchen sink basket strainers. A strainer or crossbar should be provided to restrict the clear opening of the waste outlet.
Food waste grinders (also known as garbage disposals and disposers) are designed to grind foods, including bones, into small-sized bits that can flow through the drain line. Using them to dispose of fibrous and stringy foods, such as corn husks, celery, banana skins and onions, is not recommended because fibers tend to pass by the grinder teeth, move into the drain pipe, and cause drains to clog.
Many injuries in a dwelling are related to accidents in the bathtub or shower. The minimum opening requirements for access and egress allows an adult enough room to safely step into and exit the shower area without having to twist or turn through a narrow opening. The shower opening (or access and egress opening) should be at least 22 inches (559 mm) of clear and unobstructed finish-width. The 22-inch width is based on the approximate shoulder width of an average-sized adult. This minimum opening dimension also provides comfortable access to service the valves, showerheads and drain. It allows for emergency response and rescue access, and emergency egress.
The Barrie Home Inspector is trained to inspect your homes complete plumbing system. He will inspect your supply lines to waste drains and check all your plumbing fixtures. Protect your next real estate purchase by having a professional home inspection.
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Plumbing and Your Barrie Home. The word “plumbing” comes from the Latin word plumbum, which is the element lead, and was so named because lead was used extensively in the development of piping systems. The practice of installing pipes and using the piping materials became known as plumbing.
Plumbing was extremely rare until the growth of modern cities in the 19th century. At about the same time public health authorities began pressing for better waste disposal systems to be installed. Earlier, the waste disposal system merely consisted of collecting waste and dumping it on ground or into a river. Standardized earthen plumbing pipes with broad flanges making use of asphalt for preventing leakages appeared in the urban settlements of the Indus Valley Civilization by 2700 B.C
Copper pipes can develop pin hole leaks from poorly installed plumbing. Correctly installed plumbing appliances will have a copper bonding jumper cable connecting the interrupted pipe sections. Pinhole leaks from stray current corrosion can result in thousands of dollars in plumbing bills, and sometimes necessitating the replacement of the entire affected line. The cause is an electrical problem, not a plumbing problem; once the plumbing damage is repaired, an electrician should be consulted to evaluate the grounding and bonding of the entire plumbing system.
A floor flange should be used in the connection between the drain and the floor outlet plumbing fixture. The flange should be securely attached to the drain and anchored to the structure. A wall-mounted water closet should be bolted to the hanger with corrosion-resistant bolts or screws. Joints should be sealed with an approved elastomeric gasket, a flange-to-fixture connection, or a setting compound. The most commonly used setting compound is a wax ring made of beeswax or synthetic wax.
Every plumbing fixture must have an attached vent. The top of stacks must be vented too, via a stack vent, which is sometimes called a stink pipe. DWV systems maintain neutral air pressure in the drains, allowing flow of water and sewage down drains and through waste pipes by gravity. As such, it is critical that a downward slope be maintained throughout. In relatively rare situations, a downward slope out of a building to the sewer cannot be created, and a special collection pit and grinding lift ‘sewage ejector’ pump are needed. By contrast, potable water supply systems operate under pressure to distribute water up through buildings.
A sewer pipe is normally at neutral air pressure compared to the surrounding atmosphere. When a column of waste water flows through a pipe, it compresses air in the pipe, creating a positive pressure that must be released or it will push back on the waste stream and downstream traps’ water seals. As the column of water passes, air must flow in behind the waste stream or negative pressure results. The extent of these pressure fluctuations is determined by the fluid volume of the waste discharge. Excessive negative air pressure, behind a ‘slug’ of water that is draining, can siphon water from trap seals at plumbing fixtures. Generally, a toilet outlet has the shortest trap seal, making it most vulnerable to being emptied by induced siphonage. An empty trap can allow noxious sewer gasses to enter a building.
The Barrie Home Inspector is trained in inspecting your plumbing system for deficiencies or maintenance problems. Using a professional home inspector can save you money and headaches when purchasing your new home.
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Cleaning Out A Clogged Drain. All of us confront this problem from time to time – a stopped up drain. Countless home owners will utilize store purchased liquid drain cleaners as the first plan of attack. Unfortunately, this plan is not doing the job. The pipe continues to be stopped up.
Does this sound familiar? If so, you’re truly not alone. I too have not actually seen results from store bought drain cleaners and was curious as to the key reasons why.
STEP 1 – THE PLUNGER
The initial step should be pulling out your trusty plunger. As you perhaps know, plungers work by producing a vacuum within the pipe – suctioning the clog free. What you may be aware of however, is that all plungers are not the same. Some supply greater suction than others. This is ordinarily a benefit on persistent clogs, but for your drainpipes, not so much – as strong suction may tend to damage tight fittings on older pipes.
When using a plunger, make sure to cover the overflow holes in the sink or tub with your palm or a cloth. These openings are designed into the fixture for a reason but any air let into the line will decrease the level of suction and consequently, the performance of the plunger.
Yet another detail you ought to know is that your drain pipes link to a vent line that usually runs vertically thru the walls and out the roof. Dangerous gasses must be vented to the exterior by means of these vent pipes. Having said that, these vent pipes at the same time let air into the system. Any blockage located past the vent pipe will have a difficult time releasing because the air present here will lower suction by a large margin.
STEP 2 – THE P-TRAP If the plunger doesn’t clear the clog, you should then clean the “p-trap,” which is the curved pipe just below the drain itself. Your bathtub will also have one, although it’s typically concealed behind a wall so if you are making an effort to unclog your tub, this step may not be reasonable.
The p-trap is there to stop sewer gasses from coming up into the home. Unfortunately, this part of the pipe catches hair and sediment regularly, so it’s possible your blockage could be here. Cleaning it is as simple as loosening the fittings, cleaning the pipe, and reattaching it. This step by itself could resolve your problem as blockages in this portion of pipe are quite normal.
STEP 3 – SNAKING THE PIPE If you still have a clog, this process of snaking the pipe becomes a little more involved, but it can be carried out by just about any home owner. You can buy plumbers snakes from the majority of home improvement outlets and they’re not too complicated to operate. However, they do require a bit of skill and patience.
STEP 4 – CHEMICAL DRAIN CLEANERS The final step before talking to a plumber can be to consider using store bought chemical drain cleaners. There are a number of reasons why this should be the last step.
First, these chemical substances might be harmful to pipes, especially if used in more substantial quantities – that is,, if the obstruction is not clearing and you use increasingly more. The second factor is that by nature, the water sitting in the sink during a clog works against these products. These chemicals have to go down within the water, through the drain, and reach the clog. Plus, by the time they make it to the clog they are diluted. As a result of these variables, the store bought drain cleaners are often times ineffective. They are most effectively used by allowing the water to slowly drain out, then pouring them down the empty drain.
STEP 5 – CALL A PLUMBER Last but not least, if you still have not cleared the blockage, a pro plumber should be contacted. You might decide to do this in the beginning so you can reduce the stress.
I hope this guide gives you an understanding of your plumbing and the most effective steps to follow to unclog a drain.
