Recently I had my heating ducts cleaned in my house after finishing a renovation project. The duct cleaning company used a video camera to inspect my ducts before and during cleaning, what a sight to behold! There were pieces of drywall left over from the original construction and of course lots of dust. I talked to many companies prior to choosing Anderson duct cleaning, and as they explained, the main difference is two fold; one if you don’t use a service that actually contacts all the areas of your ducts you will not remove the dust that is attached to your ducts, and two; using a camera guarantees that all the dust and debris is being removed. Shawn, the owner, also gave me a great tip, when doing any kind of work in your home that can generate dust, close off your cold air returns to stop any dust from entering your duct work.
A typical house contains dust from pollen, spores, pet dander, lint, bacteria, etc. Even regular home activities like cooking or dusting add to the dust in the air inside the house. Such dust particles results in irritation of eyes and on entering the respiratory system, may cause respiratory disorders, damage to the lungs, or in unique cases, even cancer.
I now have two transparent inspection plates in my furnace, one on the cold air return and the other on the supply side duct work. As Shawn explained, after the major duct cleaning, I will now only have to have my cold air ducts cleaned when I can visibly see dust starting to collect in the duct work. Considerably cheaper than having whole system cleaned. The secret to keeping your supply side duct work clean is using a proper air filter. Shawn recommended staying away from cardboard edged filters as they often collapsed inside the cold air return and allowed dust and contaminates to pass.
In order to keep the quality of the air inside the home healthy, good quality furnace filters for your furnace unit should be used. There are various types of filters available on the market. These can be disposable, reusable or refillable. They’re usually made from materials like fibreglass, metal, man-made or natural fibres. The efficiency of a filter is decided by fibre size, fibre density, airflow rate and particle diameter. Different types of filters available in the market are:Panel Filter- These types of furnace filters commonly consist of 1” fibreglass filter installed in the ducts. However, these furnace filters are not very effective in removing dust from the air, as its primary function is protection of the internal fan and minimizing dust on the heating coil. These are a very basic filter and can trap only larger particles from the air.
Washable/Reusable Filters- These are meant for extended use, and with regular cleaning and maintenance serve a very long life. Their downside is that it is nearly impossible to get completely cleaned and therefore adds resistance to the airflow. These types of furnace filters are also not very effective in trapping very small particles.
Pleated Filters- These are a modified kind of panel filters that have pleats or folds to increase its surface area. This design change makes it more efficient at trapping dust particles due to increased surface area. However, here too, the furnace filter starts resisting airflow once it starts collecting dust particles and thus should be replaced regularly.
High Efficiency Pleated Filters- These filters have an additional component of electrostatic charge that is designed to capture extremely small particles and various allergens, which make-up 99% of the particulate composition of the air. However, even these should be changed at regular intervals to maintain the air quality, and the airflow. Alternatively, refillable furnace filters are also available in this type.
High Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) Filters- These are extended filters that are able to remove sub-micron particles with high efficiency. HEPA filters have corrugated separators that have the core filters folded back and forth over it. This gives strength and also facilitates air passage between the pleats. However, these types of filters are not designed to fit most of the standard furnaces, as they require a separate system that includes a fan and a filter.
Choosing an air filter can be a daunting task with the number of filters and varying prices. One tip is common with all the experts that I read and watched on TV, if you can see through your filter then it no good. Most recommended the pleated type of filter which gives you more surface area of filter. These filters can then be chosen by the size of particulates that they will pass. The more particulates they filter the more expensive they become. Electrically charged filters were recommended to be one of the better filters as they also come in a washable model. My particle model has a pretty standard 16 X 25 X 1 inch filter but there are cartridge filters available that are up to 5 inches thick.
Electronic air filters charge the particles as they pass which then attracts them to the filter. These filters can then be removed and cleaned in your dishwasher. Both the larger cartridge filter and the electronic air filter have to be custom fitted to your furnaces cold air return.
Remember to periodically to check your furnace filter as the more particulates they collect the more frequently they should be changed as they will affect the air flow to your furnace.
During my inspections of Barrie’s many new homes I have come across many furnaces with a Fresh Air Mix Box installed. I always point this feature out to my clients but as many of them are totally unaware of the purpose of this feature I decide to give a brief explanation for those home owners who wondered what the purpose was.
The Fresh Air Mix Box is designed to allow your HVAC system to introduce air from the outside into your house. The difference in air temperature can vary radically so this is where the mix box does its work. Air from your furnace is mixed with outside air combining the two to create warm air.
The first step in checking furnace filter is to check and make sure your filter is properly sized for your furnace. Ensure that the filter completely fills the holding area, with no gaps at top, bottom or sides. Also the filter should be thick enough to seal off any avenues for air to bypass the filter. You can typically look at the filter in place by removing bottom panel of furnace. This should only be done once power is shut off. Newer furnaces have a safety switch on their fan compartments but turning power off is always advised.
Another item to check is your owner’s manual for the furnace and check that you have the right style of filter for your furnace. Some people buy universal re-usable filters that might provide too much resistance for the modern high-efficiency furnaces used today. If no manual is available check on the internet for manufactures site and look up specifications for model of furnace you have. If no specifications are available, send them an email, most companies gladly provide information on requests from customers.
Clean or replace your disposable furnace filter periodically, during the winter, check the filter monthly. Brush and vacuum the heat exchanger surfaces every year, if recommended by your owner’s manual. Before the heating season, clean the blower blades and seal any air leaks in ducts with several wraps of duct tape. (use the metallic duct tape only)
Types of Filters
Pleated – Experts typically recommend this type of filter as a bare minimum requirement. Pleated filters should also include the metal wire to perform electrostatic dust control. The pleat feature allows greater filtration because of greater surface area which creates less air restriction. Disposable fiberglass filters – These filter are the least expensive – and also the least effective, designed to block only large dust and dirt particles to protect your furnace. Smaller particles, like pollen and mold, pass right through. Electronic air cleaners Electronic air cleaners are expensive but are the best at removing harmful particles and pollutants from the air. In many cases, the initial cost can be offset with lower medical bills for allergy suffers.
Filter Ratings
What is an efficiency or MERV rating?
Most filters are labeled with a MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) rating number, which measures a filter’s ability to trap particles ranging in size from 3.0 microns to 10.0 microns. This number is derived from a test method designed by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) and is intended to help people compare filters.
Residential filters commonly have MERV ratings of 1-11. The higher the MERV rating, the more efficient the filter is, and the more particles it can filter.
A MERV rating of 6 means the filter is 35% to 50% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
A MERV rating of 8 means the filter is 70% to 85% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
A MERV rating of 11 means the filter is 85% to 95% minimum efficient at capturing particles, sized 3.0-10.0 microns.
MERV is an industry standard rating, so it can be used to compare filters made by different companies.
A little maintenance goes a long way toward keeping your forced-air equipment working properly. Start by cleaning or replacing the filter. With forced-air furnace systems, air returning to the furnace’s blower first passes through an air filter designed to catch dust and debris and help clean the air before it’s recycled to your home.
On new homes, check all your ducts by removing grills and vacuuming any debris that you can reach. If extremely dirty, notify the builder and have him clean the ducts. This is only possible on new construction and ducts should be inspected on your Pre-Delivery Inspection.
When typical filters become clogged with debris, they cut down on a furnace’s efficiency and, over time, can cause parts to wear out faster. Change filters quarterly or sooner if they look dirty. Pleated fabric filters are a good, inexpensive choice for reducing dust and allergens. Most experts recommend a pleated filter with wire for electrostatic performance. If you buy filters that are 3 for $10.00 then you probably could read a book looking through them, so you can imagine how useful they would be. Also check your manufactures recommendations before installing a washable filter, some type restrict too much air on high-efficiency furnaces and may cause premature failure of fan motor.
Steps to changing your furnace filter:
1) Turn off the power to the unit. Every furnace is required to have shut off switch.
2) Look for the door or panel that conceals the blower; sometimes this is marked “Filter.” Lift this door or panel off of its holding hooks or unscrew its retaining screws to remove it. Some furnaces have a custom sized filter which is held in place by wire screen in bottom compartment of furnace.
3) Standard filters are mounted next to or under the blower motor. Newer furnaces have the filter installed on exterior of furnace on supply side. A good installation will have a metal cover over side of filter to prevent air leakage. Remove cover and slide the filter out along its tracks. Check to see whether it is a disposable filter or intended to be cleaned and replaced–this should be marked on the filter’s edge, along with directions for cleaning if applicable. If it’s a disposable filter, its size will probably be printed on the frame’s edge also. Make a note of its size.
4) Buy a replacement and slide it back into place, noting that arrows stamped on the side indicate the proper direction of airflow; be sure you face these in the proper direction. If your smoke detectors or carbon-monoxide detectors start going off after cleaning your filter, you have installed the filter facing the wrong direction. Remove and reverse filter, this will resolve your detector alarm problem.
If someone in your family has allergies and you move to a new home that had pets living in it, cleaning your ducts might be advisable to remove build up which will then allow your filter to perform to its optimum ability. The most recommended type of duct cleaning is with brushes, which are sized according to the duct they are cleaning. This will allow filter to prevent dust and particles from circulating in your home.
Gas Furnace and the Heat Exchanger. Your furnaces heat exchanger is the most valuable part of your furnace. The heat exchanger creates the separation of harmful gases and the warm air used for heating. The four main problems encountered with heat exchangers are Rust, Cracked, Clogged and Overheating.
Rust – This is by far the most common problem found with heat exchangers. Air conditioners and humidifiers mounted above the heat exchanger are two of the major causes of rust creation. A leaking air conditioner drip tray, a condensate line leak, both of which can cause rust and eventual failure of your heat exchanger. Humidifiers are by far the most common source of rust in your furnace. Cheap design and hard water, coupled together, create the perfect match for allowing moisture and water into your furnace. The common drum humidifier which rolls through a tray of water, the level of which is controlled by a float, commonly gathers calcium and other hard water particles, which then causes the float to fail and water enters your furnace. The majority of humidifiers I inspect have no inside parts and the water line has been disconnected or turned off. The cold air return plenum usually has signs of water leakage from the humidifier down to the furnace. This is always an indication that a furnace technician should be called in to throughly inspect the heat exchanger. A visual inspection can not be relied on to detect all possible damage and partial dismantling of the furnace is usually required.
Cracked – Furnaces can be damaged by careless shipping or by being dropped by the installer. This can lead to a cracked heat exchanger that would not be visible to the naked eye or casual visual inspection. High temperatures can also cause cracks in the heat exchanger or maybe a faulty casting or fault in the alloy.
Clogged – This condition is usually caused by accumulation of condesate or soot. Having flue passages cleaned in high efficiency furnace heat exchangers can be a very expensive process.
Overheating – One of the common causes of overheating is the lack of air flow across the heat exchanger. Having a new furnace installed without ensuring adequate duct sizing is a common cause of this problem. Always ensure work is done by competent technician who will ensure duct size and fan blower is adequate for the furnace being installed.
Regular Maintenance will prolong the life and efficency of your furnace. Annual maintenance is the least recommended time span between cleaning and tune-ups. Save your self money and un-needed agravation by having your furnace seviced by a qualified professional.
1. Oil tanks installed prior to 1971 are grandfathered and are “deemed” to be approved.
2. All oil tanks installed after 1971 are required to be ULC approved.
3. Oil tanks are to be inspected annually by TSSA certified fuel oil burner technician, and a comprehensive examination every ten years
4. 90 day period may be granted for correction of defect if not considered an immediate hazard
5. If your oil tank is not in compliance your distributor can not deliver oil.In June 2001 Ontario enacted the Technical Standards and Safety Act, which designates two main documents for management of residential fuel oil storage systems, including Ontario Regulation 213/01 – Fuel Oil, and the Fuel Oil Code Adoption Document. The Regulation identifies two kinds of fuel oil storage tanks: aboveground fuel oil storage tanks and underground fuel oil storage tanks, defining them as follows:”aboveground tank” means a tank that is installed at or above grade level within a building or within a secondary containment, but does not include a tank that is in direct contact with backfill material “underground tank” means a buried tank or partially buried tank that is in direct contact with earth or backfill; Several highlights from these documents include: Fuel oil distributors are now required to inspect fuel oil systems and be satisfied with the installation and conditions of the fuel oil system.
Hazardous conditions must be repaired prior to filling storage tanks with oil.
Several changes regarding USTs (Underground Storage Tanks) include: – Fuel oil distributors are not permitted to supply oil to USTs that have not been registered with the Technical Standards and Safety Authority,- Existing UST installations must be upgraded with significant changes such as double walled USTs with overfill/corrosion/leak protection systems. In most cases, these upgrades will likely be cost prohibitive and the installation of an AST will be preferred from an economic perspective, or Existing UST installations that are not upgraded (as described above) will require removal between the years 2006 and 2009, depending on the tank age. USTs that have been out of service for 2 years also require removal. Assessment reports that document the extent of any fuel oil contamination and environmental cleanup must now be provided to Ministry of Environment.
All fuel oil storage tanks are required to undergo annual maintenance performed by a Technical Standards and Safety Authority (“TSSA”) certified oil burner technician. The TSSA adopted the Canadian Standards Association International’s Installation Code for Oil Burning Equipment, B139-00 as amended, which outlines the annual examination requirements.
The required annual examinations are not automatic, and it is the owner’s responsibility to arrange for such maintenance examinations every year. Additionally, all existing fuel oil storage tank and appliances are required to undergo a comprehensive inspection by the Fuel Oil distributor at least once every ten years in order to ensure compliance with the regulations and code.
The regulation prohibits the sale or purchase of a fuel oil storage tank unless it is approved. The Regulation defines “approved” as:(a) with respect to a standard or a laboratory test report, that it is listed in “Titles of Standards and Laboratory Test Reports Authorized in the Province of Ontario” as published by the designated administrative authority from time to time,
(b) with respect to an appliance, tank, equipment, component or accessory, that it bears the label or symbol of a designated testing organization or a label or symbol authorized by the director, certifying that it complies with an approved standard or laboratory test report, or
(c) with respect to an installation, that it complies with this Regulation.If a fuel oil storage tank is in such an unacceptable condition that it constitutes an immediate hazard, a distributor who finds or is informed of this is under a duty to:immediately cease supplying fuel oil;immediately take reasonable steps to shut off supply of the fuel oil;promptly give written notice of the condition to its operator stating that it is not to be used until the condition is corrected and approved by an inspector;affix such written notice to the fuel oil storage tank; and give notice to the TSSA.
If the distributor finds or is informed that the fuel oil storage tank is in an unacceptable condition but is not an immediate hazard, the distributor must notify the operator with a description of the condition and a notice that the distributor will cease supplying fuel oil until the condition is corrected. Similarly, such written notice must be affixed to the fuel oil storage tank and a copy forwarded to the TSSA.
The distributor cannot give more than 90 days for the condition to be corrected. If the condition is not corrected within the time specified in the notice, the distributor cannot supply fuel oil to the fuel oil storage tank.Contractors (i.e. a person who installs, removes, repairs, or services fuel oil appliances) have a similar duty in such situations.
All components installed in Ontario must be approved for their purpose. The requirements for tanks to be certified by ULC did not take place until after 1971. Some tanks were installed at the same time as the house was built and may not have been replaced since. These tanks may be grand fathered if the house was built prior to 1971. Prior to the inception of the CSA Installation Code for Oil Burning Equipment in 1971, there was not a national standard that outlined minimum requirements for use during the manufacturing process of aboveground fuel oil tanks. Therefore, your tank is grand fathered and deemed approved. The complete documentation may be found on TSSA web site.
Note: Many insurance companies policies regarding oil tanks are more prohibitive than TSSA. Check with your insurance company regarding their policies before completing real estate transaction.
