The attic is usually the last place to visit during your home inspection. Sometimes just entering the attic is a chore itself and sometimes not even possible. Some home owners will renovate a home and during the process cover up the attic access. This happens more often than you would think and prevents the buyer from knowing the true condition of the attic.
The most common deficiency that I come across in attics is the presence of rodents. Homes that have fiberglass insulation will typically have a varied level of mice infestation in their attic. Rodent proofing your attic will take some time and dedication to the task. Seal all holes and cracks with steel mesh and / or caulking, do not use plastics, rubber or wood that can be chewed. Use traps placed near entry points and empty traps frequently.
Many home owners or contractors will enter an attic to install alarm wiring, cable or to install a ceiling fan. When inspecting the attic there are many times where a trail is visible where individual has walked or crawled along the rafters compacting the insulation. In fiberglass, and most types of insulation, the air trapped between fibers is what gives an insulation factor to product. When insulation is compacted the R value is reduced and you create an area of heat loss in your attic.
Many attics are built using engineered wood trusses. Engineered trusses are designed to support a roof and the normal snow load for your area. If you hang a storage unit from an engineered wood truss you are technically required to have an engineer or designer produce a detail of proposed construction and having drawing stamped. Because the truss is an engineered product it comes under Part 4 of the Ontario Building Code regulations.
Soffit venting is probably the most important factor in preventing ices dams and allowing proper ventilation of your attic. The average roof requires 1 square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of roof, low slope roofs require 1 square foot for every 150 square feet of roof. The vents must be 25% on bottom and 25% on peak of roof with the remaining installed where required. It is considered a good construction practice to install upper vents on same side of roof so that air does not just cross over from one vent to the other. Soffit baffles are required to be installed at the eave of the roof to allow air from vented soffit to enter attic. Most subdivision homes will have a soffit vent installed in every third rafter bay.
Many older homes will have vents discharging into attic. Plumbing vents, bathroom exhaust fans and kitchen range exhausts should all ventilate to exterior of house. Newer homes are required to have a insulated wrap installed on exhaust ducts to prevent warm air condensing in attic and forming ice and potential blockage in winter.
Failing to properly ventilate your attic can allow moisture to build up and will eventually cause mould and damage to your sheathing and shingles. Over the years the required insulation for homes has changed. Newer homes will typically have R-50 of insulation installed. If you have an older home your insulation may require upgrading and your ventilation checked to ensure it is adequate.
Pre-engineered roof trusses provide the frame for your roof system. These trusses are usually fabricated from 2-by-4 lumber into a shape that resembles a triangle with the letter W inside of the triangle. Trusses spread your roof load to exterior walls which is continued down to footings. The bottom chord of the roof truss forms the ceiling joist and the bottom chord is immersed in insulation while the rest of the truss is not, stresses that set up in winter within the truss cause the truss to lift upward to some degree.
Truss uplift is a phenomenon common in newer homes built with roof trusses and is normally due to moisture differential between the bottom chords and the top chords of the trusses. Top floor ceiling will rise up in the winter and drop back down in the summer. Needless to say, this is a little disconcerting to most homeowners.
When wood shrinks, it shrinks differently along the grain than perpendicular to the grain. It shrinks much more at right angles to the grain, than along the grain. Studs don’t get shorter, but they get thinner in thickness and in width.
At first glance, one might assume that the floors have settled. Actually the ceiling has gone up – sometimes creating a gap as large as an inch where interior walls meet the ceilings. In the winter the warm air from the ceiling below and the thickness of the insulation keeps the bottom chord dry, causing them to shrink. While the top chords are absorbing moisture and being kept damp with the high humidity in the attic. The dampness of the top chords of the trusses cause them to expand. This differential movement in the top and bottom chord of the trusses causes them to arch up in the center. When the trusses arch up it causes cracks in the ceilings at the center of the building. As the trusses dry out with the warm summer air they drop back down closing most of the cracks.
To help combat damage to drywall from truss uplift Drywall manufacturers recommend that when attaching drywall to the bottom of a truss the attachment should be about 16 inches away from an intersecting wall. Another option is to attach trim to ceiling and not nail it to wall, allowing it to move up and down with the trusses.
When building a new home there is a framing clip is available today that’s designed to stabilize interior walls to the truss bottom. The clip allows the truss to move up and down without dragging the walls along with it. Most subdivision homes will not be using these as the framers get no extra money for installing “luxury items”.
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Everyone is home for the Holidays and in North America we all take pride in decorating our homes to celebrate the season. According to The Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents, (ROSPA), around 80,000 people suffer accidents and injuries in their homes during the Christmas holidays every year. We are listing some of the more important Holiday Safety Tips to keep you and your family safe this Holiday Season.
Christmas Decorating – The majority of accidents in the home at Christmas time involve using a ladder to hang lights or decorate the tree. Check your step ladder for faulty steps before using and don’t extend your reach while using. Always use your ladder on an even surface and If possible always have someone steady your ladder while using. Most ladders are not designed to support anyone on top step.
Christmas Tree Fires – If you have are choosing your tree remember these tips; if purchasing a “live tree” check the needles to see if they are hard to pull out, bend the needles to ensure they don’t break and the trunk of the tree should be sticky with resin. When choosing an artificial tree ensure the label identifies the tree as being “fire resistant”, although the tree can still catch fire at least it won’t go up in flames instantly.
When setting up your tree ensure it is kept away from heat sources, like radiators and fireplaces. If a live tree have a stand that holds water and cut a few inches off the bottom of the tree so it can absorb water easily.
Candles in the Home – December is the peak time of year for Candle Fires in the home. More than half the candle fires occurred when something was too close to the candle and ignited. Never put candles on your Christmas tree!
Most Christmas Tree fires are caused by shorts in electrical lights or open flames from candles, lighters or matches.
Christmas Lights – Check every string of lights to ensure they have a label attached from a recognized association such as CSA or UL and that they are certified for outdoor use if hanging on exterior of home. Never attach more than 3 strings of lights to one extension cord. Use insulated staples when attaching strings of lights and plug all your lights into circuits protected with Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters.
Fireplaces – Everyone likes a warm comfortable fire during the Holidays. Have your wood burning appliance cleaned at least once a year and if you haven’t used your appliance for a while, have a WETT Certified inspector check your unit to ensure it is safe to use. In Barrie, Orillia, Alliston, Midland, Bradford, New Market or Wasaga Beach you can call the Barrie Home Inspector for all your wood burning needs. Remember not to burn your wrapping paper in your fireplace. The intense heat given off from wrapping paper could start a chimney fire. When hanging your Christmas stockings, ensure they are at least 18 inches away from fireplace opening.
Young Children – Grandparents especially should pay attention to the decorations and items put out in their home during the Holiday Season. Young children can quickly find small items to put in their mouth and any novelties should be placed out of their reach. Also do not let children play with Christmas lights as they have been known to swallow the bulbs. Choking is a very serious hazard for small children and every effort should be made to ensure items like batteries, parts of toys or burst balloons are kept out of their reach.
Kitchen – Cooking the Family Meal for Christmas can be a daunting task. Ensure you have enough time allotted to cook all the ingredients so that you are not rushing while dealing with boiling water and hot fat. Remember to keep your pot handles turned in towards the stove and keep your knives out of reach of any young guests who may wander into the kitchen. Try and keep the clutter during meal preparation to a minimum to prevent problems with electrical cords and cooking utensils. Do not wear loose flowing types of clothing while cooking. Have a cookie sheet and /or a fire extinguisher handy in case you have a pot catch fire while cooking. If a fire starts in your oven, do not open the door, just turn of the heat and allow it to go out on its own.
Falls – Older guests are very susceptible to fall and trip hazards and may suffer a serious injury if one occurs. Check for trip hazards from electrical cords and any steps are kept clear and handrails are fully accessible. Keep a parking spot close to the house open for grandparents and ensure sidewalks are clear and free from ice. Try and seat your older guests so they have easy access in and out of their seats.
Keep your Loved Ones safe and enjoy a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Prepare Your Home for Old Man Winter and save Energy & Money
Everyone puts off those last minute maintenance chores until the weather turns cold. We are bringing you a list of items that will make the transition into winter mode that much easier.
Heating
Having your furnace inspected and is operating at peak efficiency is a wise investment. Typical cost for a technician to inspect and clean your furnace is around $80 to $100.00. This is a small price to pay to avoid a costly repair on the coldest day of the year when your furnace won’t start. Change your furnace filter every 30 days or so, if you have animals who shed hair a more frequent replacement might be required.
Check or have your chimney checked for any cracks, missing brick or mortar or loose rain cap. The freezing thawing action of water penetrating small cracks can do a lot of damage over the winter season. If you have a wood burning fireplace you should consider having it cleaned prior to use and have the flue tiles inspected for any cracks or deficiencies.
If you have ceiling fans now is a good time to clean the dust and lint off the blades and reverse direction of motor. Forcing the warm air down will make your living area feel much more cosy.
Windows & Doors
Clean your windows and doors inside and out. This is a great time to check your seals and exterior caulking. Ensuring your seams on brick and concrete window sills are not open can save you a lot of money on needless repairs later on. Water can enter your exposed seams cracking mortar and eventually damaging the brick below. This “spalling” as it is known, happens when clay style brick absorbs moisture, which then freezes and blows off part of the brick surface.
Check all your door closures to ensure they all operate smoothly. Screen doors should have glass panels lowered or installed on older models. Basement windows screens in window wells are susceptible to damage from rodents and other small animals. Screens should be removed and stored for the winter. Replace any damaged door seals or sweeps to prevent drafts from entering home during the cold months. Operate your garage doors and lightly grease track for smoother and quieter operation.
Roofs & Gutters
Inspect your roofs shingles for any damaged or missing tabs. Pay close attention to any flashings on walls or chimneys to ensure that they are completely sealed. Caulk any suspect areas to be doubly sure of preventing any roof leaks. Clean out any debris in gutters and ensure your downspouts and extensions are in good condition. If you have an older home using heating cables for eaves or downspouts, now is a good time to ensure that they are in good working order. Put away your rain barrels and ensure your splash pads and extensions are directing water away from your home.
Plumbing
Drain all your exterior water lines to prevent freezing. I personally always leave the exterior tap open and have never had a freeze up problem. If you have hose reels installed, now is a good time to store them after draining out the water. On older homes with crawlspaces now is a good time to close ventilation vents and cover with insulation in preparation for winter. Any in ground sprinkler lines should have already been blown out by your sprinkler maintenance company, if not call them immediately.
Wrapping your hot water tank and hot water lines with a insulation can save you money all year long. Check your sump pump by either lifting float or pouring water into unit to ensure it is in operating condition.
Check Smoke Alarms and Carbon Monoxide Detectors
Fire departments recommend replacing the batteries in smoke alarms twice a year, and if your smoke alarm is between 5 and 10 years old, replace it with a new one. There should be at least one smoke alarm on every level of your house and one within 5 m of each bedroom. In Ontario this is the law and homeowners can be fined for non-compliance. Smoke detector information
Drafts & Air Leaks
Energy experts estimate about 30% of the heat in your home is lost to leaks and drafts. Adding foam seals to exterior wall outlets can stop and lot of heat loss. Check any penetrations on the exterior wall of your house and seal any gaps with caulking, this stops both cold air and moisture from entering your home. Check you interior for leaks and missing insulation at penetrations. Most contractors will not replace your vapour barrier or insulation when they install electrical or heating vents. Replacing insulation and re-sealing vapour barrier can save a lot of heat loss over the course of a winter.
Equipment
Change your oil in lawnmowers and any other lawn maintenance equipment and add some fuel stabilizer prior to storing for the season. Get your snowblower out and ready to go. Check oil and top up the tank with fresh fuel prior to starting. Grease all fittings and check for loose fittings or bolts. Put away the rakes and grass trimmer and get out the shovels and ice choppers. Ensure you have adequate supply of salt or sand for sidewalks.
Most homes have gutters installed to collect and discharge water away from our home. Without gutters water would splash when hitting the ground and possibly enter our basements. For every inch of rain that falls on a roof of 1,000 square feet, you can expect to collect and drain approximately 600 gallons of rainwater. Improper drainage is probably one of the main causes of water penetrating into basements.
Installing gutters is easier now with rolled seamless aluminum eaves trough being the most popular type for new homes. Sectional gutters are typically for the Do It Yourself type of installation. The joints in a sectional gutter system will eventually leak. For proper drainage you should ensure your gutter slopes a minimum of 1/2 inch for every 10 feet of gutter. When your length of gutter exceeds 40 feet you should raise the gutter in the center and slope down to opposite downspout locations. This is why it is important to plan your gutter and downspout drain locations prior to starting job. Many new home designers do not take winter into consideration, and as you often find in Barrie ON home inspections, you end up with downspouts discharging onto sidewalk and driveway walking areas.
When selecting your gutter you most likely will have a number of options to choose from. The most common options are material, profile, size, production, and coating. Many new homes and replacement roofs are using steel or metal roofing material. One downside to metal roofing is that snow and ice tend to start sliding off these roofs in fairly large sheets. Many metal roofs have snow guards or other devices which break up the sliding snow and ice before it leaves the roof. The snow and ice slides can rip your gutters right off your fascia even with snow guards installed and many home owners opt for the more expensive steel gutters rather than the aluminum gutter for this very reason. Vinyl and plastic gutters are usually not installed by professionals and are generally considered a waste of money. Seals tend to leak at joints and they quickly degrade in sunlight.
The lower edge of your shingles should extend beyond the fascia board by about 3/4 inch so that runoff drains into the gutters. If the overhang is too short, water will drip behind the gutter, resulting in rotted roof sheathing and fascia, water stains of your siding, and even soil erosion and a flooded basement. Fix this problem by installing sheet-metal drip edge, which is installed under the first course of roof shingles. Most professional roofers will install this product when shingling your roof.
If you have lots of trees around your home you probably have to clean your gutters on a regular basis. Many home owners in the Barrie On area are choosing to protect their gutters with one of the many forms of gutter protection available today. These gutter protection systems range from a clip in screen to a complete cover which allows water to run over the edge and back into gutter, keeping gutters free from leaves and other debris.
Gutter Inspection & Cleaning
Unless you are used to climbing ladders we recommend you hire a professional company to inspect and clean your gutters. Many seniors opt for installing a gutter guard which prevents debris from entering and blocking gutters.
Your Home – How Long Will it Last? When you are considering buying your dream house there are many items in a house that will eventually require replacement. The Barrie Home Inspector has put together a list of components and systems that you can expect to replace at some time in the life span of your home. Some of the areas we will be dealing with are your roof, heating and air conditioning, hot water tanks, siding or cladding, plumbing supply lines and doors and windows.
Gas furnaces will typically last 20 to 25 years with only minor repairs being required. Most furnaces are replaced after the heat exchanger fails and even if still under warranty the labour costs would be prohibitive. The flame sensor is the most common failure and a gas furnace can vary from $100.00 to $200.00, so it pays to shop around. The initial cost of a new gas furnace can range from $900.00 to $14,00.00 with installation being extra.
Oil furnaces have a life expectancy of 20 years based on results used in 2010. Also with the oil furnace you need an oil storage tank. The storage tank should be a listed ULC rated tank which is good for 10 years from date on listing tag. After ten years your oil supplier will have to visually inspect your tank before delivering oil.
Central Air Conditioning
Units can last anywhere from 15 to 20 years. Some models will last longer and most experts will tell you to just run them until they stop. Having a working 25 year old central air conditioner is not un-common. Roofs with Fiberglass shingles can expect to last around Below is a list of items in the home and the Life Expectancy or the individual items.
Roofs
The most common type of roofing material is fiberglass shingles. The builders grade of shingle usually will last between 18 and 20 years. The south side of roof gets more sunlight and will start deteriorating first. Whenever you see your shingles starting to curl it is time to start thinking about replacing your shingles. Ensure your roofers quote will include things like, installing a starter strip, whether of not he will be replacing any valley or flashing material and will he be putting new flashing on plumbing vents etc.
Plumbing
Some insurance companies will not insure home with galvanized plumbing as it is not used anymore and it will have exceeded its predictable life span. The common life expectancy of galvanized steel is 20 to 50 years. Copper is rated to last over 50 years and was the most common type of plumbing material used replacing galvanized steel. Pex plumbing is thought to be able to be used for well over 50 plus years as there is not hard data available as yet. Polybutylene piping—a gray, plastic plumbing material used from the 1970s through the 1990s—is extremely prone to breakage.
Hot Water Tanks – The consensus on the life expectancy on water heaters seems to depend on some variables, such as; how hard your water is, do you drain tank periodically, and the hotter the water the shorter the life span. 8 to 12 years seems to be the average life span.
Exterior Cladding
Fiber-cement, wood, and aluminum siding have a 50 year life expectancy, but life expectancy for wood is contingent on painting. Vinyl has a 25 year expected life, however, it may be replaced earlier because it tends to look less presentable over time due to fading and cannot be painted. Fiber-cement board has twice the life span of vinyl. Wood composite products have the shortest useful life span – around 10 to 30 years.
Doors & Windows
Aluminum windows are expected to last between 15 and 20 years while wooden
windows should last upwards of 30 years. Newer PVC windows have a life expectancy from 8 to 30 years. Quality of manufacturing will vary and items like using Argon gas for thermal units can greatly extend life of window. Some exterior doors now come with a lifetime guarantee but don’t expect to find that door installed by a subdivision builder.
Below is a chart of the life expectancy of most household items:
Life Expectancy of Household Components
Appliances
Life in years
Compactors
10
Dishwashers
10
Dryers
14
Disposal
10
Freezers, compact
12
Freezers, standard
16
Microwave ovens
11
Electric ranges
17
Gas ranges
19
Gas ovens
14
Refrigerators, compact
14
Refrigerators, standard
17
Washers, automatic and compact
13
Exhaust fans
20
Source: Appliance Statistical Review, April 1990
Bathrooms
Life in years
Cast iron bathtubs
50
Fiberglass bathtub and showers
10-15
Shower doors, average quality
25
Toilets
50
Sources: Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Bath
Cabinetry
Life in years
Kitchen cabinets
15-20
Medicine cabinets and bath vanities
20
Sources: Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association, Neil Kelly Designers
Closet systems
Life in years
Closet shelves
Lifetime
Countertops
Life in years
Laminate
10-15
Ceramic tile, high-grade installation
Lifetime
Wood/butcher block
20+
Granite
20+
Sources: AFPAssociates of Western Plastics, Ceramic Tile Institute of America
Doors
Life in years
Screen
25-50
Interior, hollow core
Less than 30
Interior, solid core
30-lifetime
Exterior, protected overhang
80-100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed
25-30
Folding
30-lifetime
Garage doors
20-50
Garage door opener
10
Sources: Wayne Dalton Corporation, National Wood Window and Door Association, Raynor Garage Doors
Electrical
Life in years
Copper wiring, copper plated, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper
100+
Armored cable (BX)
Lifetime
Conduit
Lifetime
Source: Jesse Aronstein, Engineering Consultant
Finishes used for waterproofing
Life in years
Paint, plaster, and stucco
3-5
Sealer, silicone, and waxes
1-5
Source: Brick Institute of America Floors
Floors
Life in years
Oak or pine
Lifetime
Slate flagstone
Lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile
20-30
Terrazzo
Lifetime
Carpeting (depends on installation, amount of traffic, and quality of carpet)
11
Marble (depends on installation, thickness of marble, and amount of traffic)
Lifetime+
Sources: Carpet and Rug Institute, Congoleum Corporation, Hardwood Plywood Manufacturers Association, Marble Institute, National Terrazzo and Mosaic Association, National Wood Flooring Association, Resilient Floor Covering Institute
Footings and foundation
Life in years
Poured footings and foundations
200
Concrete block
100
Cement
50
Waterproofing, bituminous coating
10
Termite proofing (may have shorter life in damp climates)
5
Source: WR Grace and Company
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC)
Life in years
Central air conditioning unit (newer units should last longer)
15
Window unit
10
Air conditioner compressor
15
Humidifier
8
Electric water heater
14
Gas water heater (depends on type of water heater lining and quality of water)
11-13
Forced air furnaces, heat pump
15
Rooftop air conditioners
15
Boilers, hot water or steam (depends on quality of water)
30
Furnaces, gas- or oil-fired
18
Unit heaters, gas or electric
13
Radiant heaters, electric
10
Radiant heaters, hot water or steam
25
Baseboard systems
20
Diffusers, grilles, and registers
27
Induction and fan coil units
20
Dampers
20
Centrifugal fans
25
Axial fans
20
Ventilating roof-mounted fans
20
DX, water, and steam coils
20
Electric coils
15
Heat Exchangers, shell-and-tube
24
Molded insulation
20
Pumps, sump and well
10
Burners
21
Sources: Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute, Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration News, Air Movement and Control Association, American Gas Association, American Society of Gas Engineers, American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers, Inc., Safe Aire Incorporated
Home security appliances
Life in years
Intrusion systems
14
Smoke detectors
12
Smoke/fire/intrusion systems
10
Insulation
Life in years
For foundations, roofs, ceilings, walls, and floors
Lifetime
Sources: Insulation Contractors Association of America, North American Insulation Manufacturers Association
Landscaping
Life in years
Wooden decks
15
Brick and concrete patios
24
Tennis courts
10
Concrete walks
24
Gravel walks
4
Asphalt driveways
10
Swimming pools
18
Sprinkler systems
12
Fences
12
Sources: Associated Landscape Contractors of America, Irrigation Association
Masonry
Life in years
Chimney, fireplace, and brick veneer
Lifetime
Brick and stone walls
100+
Stucco
Lifetime
Sources: Brick Institute of America, Architectural Components, National Association of Brick Distributors, National Stone Association
Millwork
Life in years
Stairs, trim
50-100
Disappearing stairs
30-40
Paints and stains
Life in years
Exterior paint on wood, brick, and aluminum
7-10
Interior wall paint (depends on the acrylic content)
5-10
Interior trim and door paint
5-10
Wallpaper
7
Sources: Finnaren and Haley, Glidden Company, The Wall Paper
Plumbing
Life in years
Waste piping, cast iron
75-100
Sinks, enamel steel
5-10
Sinks, enamel cast iron
25-30
Sinks, china
25-30
Faucets, low quality
13-15
Faucets, high quality
15-20
Sources: American Concrete Pipe Association, Cast Iron Soil and Pipe Institute, Neil Kelly Designers, Thompson House of Kitchens and Baths
Roofing
Life in years
Asphalt and wood shingles and shakes
15-30
Tile (depends on quality of tile and climate)
50
Slate (depends on grade)
50-100
Sheet metal (depends on gauge of metal and quality of fastening and application)
20-50+
Built-up roofing, asphalt
12-25
Built-up roofing, coal and tar
12-30
Asphalt composition shingle
15-30
Asphalt overlag
25-35
Source: National Roofing Contractors Association
Rough structure
Life in years
Basement floor systems
Lifetime
Framing, exterior and interior walls
Lifetime
Source: NAHB Research Foundation
Shutters
Life in years
Wood, interior
Lifetime
Wood, exterior (depends on weather conditions)
4-5
Vinyl plastic, exterior
7-8
Aluminum, interior
35-50
Aluminum, exterior
3-5
Sources: A.C. Shutters, Inc., Alcoa Building Products, American Heritage Shutters
Siding
Life in years
Gutters and downspouts
30
Siding, wood (depends on maintenance)
10-100
Siding, steel
50-Lifetime
Siding, aluminum
20-50
Siding, vinyl
50
Sources: Alcoa Building Products, Alside, Inc., Vinyl Siding Institute
Walls and window treatments
Life in years
Drywall and plaster
30-70
Ceramic tile, high grade installation
Lifetime
Sources: Association of Wall and Ceiling Industries International, Ceramic Tile Institute of America
Windows
Life in years
Window glazing
20
Wood casement
20-50
Aluminum and vinyl casement
20-30
Screen
25-50
Sources: Best Built Products, Optimum Window Manufacturing, Safety Glazing Certification Council, Screen Manufacturers Association
