Air Conditioner Basics

Air conditioning is not simply the cooling of air.  Air conditioners use refrigeration to chill indoor air, taking advantage of a remarkable physical law: When a liquid converts to a gas (in a process called phase conversion), it absorbs heat. Air conditioners exploit this feature of phase conversion by forcing special chemical compounds to evaporate and condense over and over again in a closed system of coils. Air conditioning involves many aspects of conditioning or changing the air in whatever way in order to make the living environment for the occupants of a building comfortable.  This may include warming the air, cooling the air, adding moisture, dehumidifying the air, filtering the air, and maintaining a balanced distribution or circulation of the air.

Humidity refers to the water vapor or moisture content in the air.  Water vapor is actually steam at low temperatures and low pressures.  Air can carry water vapor, depending on its temperature.  When air absorbs moisture (when it is humidified), the latent heat of evaporation must be supplied from the air or by something else.  When moisture from the air is condensed, the latent heat of condensation is recovered.  Air is referred to as saturated when it is carrying the maximum water vapor that it can hold. We are very sensitive to humidity, as the skin relies on the air to remove moisture. The process of sweating is your body’s attempt to keep cool and maintain its current temperature. If the air is at 100-percent relative humidity, sweat will not evaporate into the air.

Dehumidification is the removal of moisture from the air.  A dehumidifier is a device that removes moisture from the air.  Dehumidifying is accomplished by condensation, which takes place when the temperature of the air is lowered below its dew point.

Gas-Compression Cooling

Gas-compression cooling involves the compression and expansion of refrigerant gas and the transfer of heat.  Heat is removed from the interior air and is released outside.  Heat is simply transferred from one place to another.

A gas-compression cooling system consists of the following components:

  • the compressor;Parts of Air Conditioner
  • the condenser coil;
  • the expansion device;
  • the evaporator coil; and
  • fans.

The compressor acts as a pump and pushes the liquid refrigerant through the liquid line to the expansion device.  The liquid refrigerant is under high pressure in the liquid line.  The expansion device is located at the evaporative coil.

The expansion device controls the flow of refrigerant into the evaporator coil.  The device can be an expansion valve or a capillary tube.

As the high-pressure liquid refrigerant is forced through the expansion device, it expands into a larger volume in the evaporator coil.  When it expands, its pressure is reduced and its boiling temperature is lowered.  Under this low pressure, the liquid refrigerant boils until it becomes a vapor.  During this change of state, the refrigerant absorbs heat from the warm indoor air flowing across the evaporator coil.

After the refrigerant has boiled or vaporized, the vapor moves out of the coil to the outdoor condenser unit through the suction line and enters the compressor.  The compressor compresses the refrigerant vapor, increasing its temperature and pressure.  The compressor pushes the vapor along the condenser.

At the condenser, the hot vapor is cooled.  It is cooled by the outdoor air being blown through the coils of the condenser.  When the air passes through the coils, it absorbs some of the refrigerant heat.  The heat is transferred from the refrigerant in the coil to the air passing through.

The temperature of the air blowing out of the condenser increases, and the temperature of the refrigerant vapor decreases until the vapor is cooled to its saturation point.  At that point, the vapor condenses into a liquid.

This refrigerant liquid is still under high-pressure.  It is pushed to the expansion device (valve or tube) and the cycle continues.

Cold is never created in this type of air-conditioning system.  Instead, heat is transferred from one place to another.  Heat is absorbed from the interior air, moved outside, and released to the outdoor air.  When heat is absorbed from the interior air, the air temperature is cooled.

Condenser

In a typical air-conditioning split system, the condenser unit (or outdoor coil) is located outside.  A condenser condenses or liquefies gas by cooling it.  When the condenser is running, hot refrigerant gas coming from the compressor enters the condenser coil at the top.  As it passes down through the condenser coil, it cools. The compressor is located inside the condenser unit.

The condenser can be a plain tube design, finned tube, or plate-type.  It can be a series-pass or parallel-pass type.  Condenser units can be air-cooled (the most common for residential installations), water-cooled, or a combination of the two.

An air-cooled condenser is made up of a coil that air blows across to cool the hot gas that’s passing through the coil.  There is a fan inside the condenser that pushes the air through the coil.  Heat is transferred from the hot gases that are moving in the coil to the air passing through the coil.

If you put your hand in the path of the air blowing out of an operating condenser, it should feel warm.

Air-cooled condensers must be maintained and kept clean and free from debris and damage.  The fins on the condenser coils can be easily damaged and bent.  Damaged and bent fins can block the air flow through the condenser coil.  A fin comb is an implement that can be used to straighten the fins back to their original position.

Evaporator

An evaporator is sometimes called an evaporator coil, cooling coil, and indoor blower coil.  In a typical residential air-conditioning system, the evaporator absorbs the heat energy from the air passing through it.  It transfers the heat energy from the passing air to the refrigerant moving inside it.  As the liquid refrigerant absorbs the heat, it is boiled off or evaporated as it moves through the evaporator.  The house’s air temperature drops as it passes through the coil, pushed by the blower fan.

Evaporators are usually made of copper tubing with closely spaced aluminum fins.  There are about 14 aluminum fins per inch of copper tubing.  This type of finned coil provides a very good surface area for transferring heat.  Some coils are made of aluminum tubing, which does not last as long as copper tubing.

The evaporator coil is sometimes called an A-coil because some are shaped like the letter A.  Some coils are called slab coils because they appear like a slab tilted at an angle.  Coils have a condensate tray underneath to catch the condensate water draining off the coil.

Similar to the condenser, the evaporator coil must be maintained and kept clean and free from dirt, dust and damage.

Refrigerant

A refrigerant is a substance that absorbs heat as it expands or vaporizes.  A good refrigerant has a low boiling point and functions with a positive pressure.

The two most commonly used refrigerants in older air-conditioning systems are R-12 (Freon® 12) and R-22 (Freon® 22).  R-12 has a boiling point of -21.8° F at atmospheric pressure.  R-22 has a boiling point of -41.4° F.

R-410A is replacing those older refrigerants because it does not deplete ozone.  R-410A can be recognized by its various trade names, including Genetron® AZ-20®, DuPont™ Suva®, and Puron®.

Electrical Disconnect

According to modern standards, air-conditioning condensing units and heat pump units should have a readily accessible electrical disconnect within sight of the unit as the only allowable means. The disconnect is allowed to be installed on or within the unit, but it should not be located on panels designed to allow access to the unit.

 Inspection

The Barrie Home Inspector does not inspect air conditioner units when outside temperature is below 65 degrees F.  There is a possibility that the refrigerant may not completely vaporize and liquid would then enter compressor which may damage unit and which will then require replacement.  This information will be noted on your home inspection report.

Soffit Baffles Protect Your Attic

Soffit Baffles Protect Your Attic from Mould & Moisture

Soffit baffles, or rafter vents, are an essential part of keeping your home well-ventilated and reducing the moisture on top of your house. Soffit Baffles prevent vents from getting clogged by insulation and ensure a clear channel forSoffit Baffles for Attic outside air to move into the attic through soffit vents.If you want a well-ventilated attic that doesn’t regularly grow mold for you to remove, you’ll want to make sure your home is properly aired out.

Even well-insulated attic spaces require air circulation. That means drawing air in from outside the home and allowing it to push through the attic. Baffles provide a channel for air to flow through certain parts of the attic. Baffles are also called wind baffles, venting chutes, rafter vents or insulation baffles. Typically made from polyvinyl chloride, rigid foam board or cardboard, they can be installed with a few staples.While there are many projects for your roof that professionals should handle, attic venting baffles can be installed by anyone. This makes it a perfect home improvement project for those who love caring for their home themselves.

Roof turbines used to be very popular for venting the upper section of your attic.  Most professional roofers do not use these any more as the are known for allowing rain and snow to enter your attic.  Typically a mushroom type of vent or with louvers, which do not allow snow and water in, are used today.   When I pull up to a home inspection the first place I look at is the roof, if there are newer shingles and old style turbines I know that I am going to find issues with the workmanship involving flashings, nailing and caulking.

When you are faced with installing new shingles, which is about every 15 years for fiberglass shingles, ensure your contract specifies whether you are getting new vents, flashings, valleys and cover flashing or just reusing existing material.

Natural Attic Ventilation

Many home owners do not understand why anyone would allow cold air to enter the attic through vents, cold has alwayes been associated with poor insulation.  During the winter months allowing a natural flow of outdoor air to Ice Dam on Roof ventilate the attic helps keep it cold, which reduces the potential for ice damming (snow that melts off a roof from an attic that is too warm and then re-freezes at the gutters, causing an ice dam that can damage the roof). Proper insulation and air sealing also keeps attics cold in winter by blocking the entry of heat and moist air from below. In the summer, natural air flow in a well-vented attic moves super-heated air out of the attic, protecting roof shingles and removing moisture. The insulation will resist heat transfer into the house.

Attic ventilation works on the principle that heated air naturally rises, primarily utilizing two types of vents:

  • Intake vents, located at the lowest part of the roof under the eaves, allow cool air to enter the attic.
  • Hot air exhaust vents, located at the peak of the roof, allow hot air to escape.

Taking advantage of this natural process, referred to as passive ventilation, is the most common way to vent an attic. In order to facilitate this exchange of warm and cool air, the general rule of thumb suggests installing at least 1 sq. ft. of vent for every 300 sq. ft. of attic floor. Building codes vary, though, so do check with your local building authority for the specifics that pertain to your community.

Older Homes Soffit Vents

Just because you have vented aluminum soffit installed around your home does not always mean you have good ventilation.  Many times home renovators may install the vented soffit over existing wood soffit without installing any ventilation holes.  Most contractors will rip a strip of plywood along the entire soffit area to ensure fresh air can enter your attic.  If you are unsure of whether your soffit is working as it should, just take a powerful flashlight and put it up to your soffit while someone looks in the attic to see if any light penetrates into the soffit.  If there is no light then there is no venting.

Venting Roof of Finished Area

Rafter vents, or insulation baffles, install in any rafter space to create narrow gaps that direct fresh air from the soffit vents to the peak of the roof. These specialty vents do not affect the finished look inside the remodeled attic. Instead, fresh air still flows in through the soffit vents and travels along the underside of the sheathing until it reaches a ridge vent or can be vented with another type of exhaust vent

 

 

Barrie Home Inspector Maintenance Tips

Barrie Home Inspector Maintenance Tips
Electrical Service Boxes

Electrical Service Boxes

Electrical Service Boxes The service box includes a circuit breaker which can be used to shut off all the power in the house, or a switch with a handle located on the outside, and the service fuses inside. The cover on the service box is often sealed by the utility. ...

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Deck Collapse Is Your Deck Safe?

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Safety Alert: Study Reveals Sharp Increase in Deck Failures A landmark study reveals that there have been 179 reported deck collapses from January2000 through December 2006, killing 33 and injuring 1,122. By: Michael Morse, Brittney Corwin, Robert Morse and Andrew...

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Barrie Home Inspections Maintenance Tips

Barrie Home Inspections provides valuable advice and tips for home owners wanting to improve and protect their investment.  Every home requires maintenance and ignoring simple yearly tasks can lead to very expensive repairs in the future.  Our maintenance defect pictures provide graphic examples of the damage that can be done to your home when maintenance is ignored.  A quick inspection of your home will alert you to areas of your home that need simple maintenance repairs, ignoring these will cost you in the future.

Asphalt Shingles

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Asphalt Shingle Information Asphalt shingles have been largely replaced by Fiberglass Shingles which are the most common shingle material now  used. The shingles consist of fiberglass base coated  and covered with granular material. In 1960...

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 Protecting Your Homes Brick.  Brick veneer is a porous material which exposed to a constant source of moisture will absorb it.  Both air and water can penetrate brick veneer. Moisture can do a great amount of damage to your homes brick, typically by...

WETT Inspections Barrie

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Most problems with Fireplaces and Wood Stoves originate from not being properly inspected.  The masonry chimney is the one item that is prone to damage, from overheating or moisture penetration.  Water damage is the worst culprit when it comes to chimney...

Pex Plumbing Problems

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Pex Plumbing—an acronym for cross-linked, polyethylene water supply piping. The new piping system used essentially plastic piping to carry water into and through the new home. To connect the plastic (PEX) piping, the piping system also notably used brass fittings and...

Buyer Beware – Why You Need a Home Inspection

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Over the course of the past fifteen years I have come across many homes which have had problems that would scare any rational buyer away.  Unfortunately not all buyers have a home inspection and find out the hard way about the true condition of their home....

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Alliston Home Inspector

Alliston Home Inspector Provides “Peace of Mind”

After performing over 8,000 home inspections one thing sticks out clearly about buying homes,  and that is no two homes are alike.  Different builders, quality of building materials, age of house and renovations can make all the difference in the quality of your home.

The-Alliston-Home-Inspector 

 

 

 

 

 

Is that house really a bargain?  Beautiful basement, but what is really behind those walls and above that ceiling?  These are some of the items that an experienced home inspector can tell you. The basement of a home tells the true story about maintenance, building permits and possible illegal wiring or plumbing.

Home Buying Tips

When buying a new home you only have to watch out for defective products and poor workmanship,  all done by tradesmen who are sub-contractors of the builder.

When buying an older home you have to worry about shoddy and unsafe workmanship, especially if any renovations have been done.

Any plumbing, electrical or structural deficiencies immediately raise a Red Flag which indicates that work has been done without obtaining the required Building Permit.   Even if the work looks well done you will be on the hook for any future issues that may arise.

Some home owners like to work with metal studs when framing a basement but they don’t want to pay for the proper electrical fittings required when you use metal studs.  This could affect the safety of you and your family if the entire metal wall structure becomes energized.

Another common electrical deficiency is electrical outlets with “Reversed Polarity”.  This can also affect the safety of your family if small or handheld electrical appliances are plugged into faulty outlet.

Do it yourself roofers are another hazard home buyers want to be aware of.  I recently inspected a waterfront property during a period of heavy rain.  The inspection lasted as long as it took to open the front door.  The water was pouring through the wood ceiling and leaking down through the floor.   The buyer locked the door and we left.  The owners home insurance would probably not cover the water damage due to a Do It Yourself roofing project.

Don't Buy a Money-Pit 

 

 

 

 

Thermal Imaging Inspections

When I walk into a home which has just been “Freshened Up” for sale, the first thing I look at is the installation of the laminate flooring.  I look at door corners and entrances to see how the laminate was installed.  Then the paint tells a story, how was it put on and does it cover the previous colour.  Kitchen counter tops are sometimes refinished with an “out of the box” product, cupboard doors are usually repainted etc.  This are typically rental properties that are put on the market and a quick sprucing up is applied to give better appeal.  Lipstick on a Pig is my view of these homes.  Everything is cosmetic with no real upgrading or professional repairs being made.

When you are buying a home between 15 and 20 years old there are some items that will soon need replacement if not done already.  Typically your furnace will be at the end of its predictable service life,  the roof will need replacing and your windows could be at an age where the thermal seals will start leaking.  Most home sellers will do the upgrades prior to selling to add value to their property, but if not you should be aware of future expenses that you may be incurring.

The Alliston Home Inspector is a Certified Building Code Official with the Ontario Building Officials Association,  a Certified Master Inspector,  was a Registered Builder with HUDAC and has over 20 years of actual home inspection experience.

View of hidden moisture detected with Thermal Imaging Camera.  Without the use of an Infrared Camera this moisture would have gone undetected.  Free Thermal Imaging with every home inspection.

Infrared technology can help find missing insulation and moisture intrusion.  Older homes tend to have many areas where insulation was not installed or has shifted over time and is now allowing cold air to enter your home.

Every Home Inspection comes with a 100% Money Back Guarantee – Good for 30 days after you move into your new home.

Call the Alliston Home Inspector at 705-795-8255 or Toll Free at 888-818-8608

Email Roger

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Basement Exit Window

Basement Window Exit Requirements

Where a basement exit window is required confuses many people with many different thoughts on what is acceptable. Although I have written a number of articles on this subject I still come across Realtor’s who will offer their opinion on Requirements for Basement Windows based on “hearsay” vs the facts of the Ontario Building Code.  This type of confusion is encountered a lot when individuals, without any formal training, start advising home buyers on Building Code requirements when purchasing a home.

The biggest mistake I find people make is stating that each bedroom requires an “EXIT WINDOW”.  This is simply not true.  Although there are  requirements for light and ventilation, this is not part of exit requirements.  ( National Building Code does require a window in each bedroom )

The requirement for a properly-sized bedroom window has been around since 1980 and subsequent code changes since then have made it even easier to understand how a bedroom egress window is defined. As with any building project, a proper building permit is required and your drawings will be required to show location and size of windows. There is always some interpretation involved in Ontario Building Codes and Fire Codes, so to be safe consult with the Inspection Department and Fire Department prior to starting construction.

Basement Bedroom Exit Window – National Building Code
The National Building Code of Canada (NBCC), on which the Provincial Codes are based, has very clear requirements as it relates to bedroom windows and how the bedroom window serves three distinct purposes in the home:

  1. Light (at least five per cent of the floor area served)
  2. Ventilation (at least 0.28m² or 3 ft² or an adequate year-round mechanical ventilation)
  3. Emergency Escape: An Emergency Escape requires that each bedroom must have a door that leads directly to the exterior of the building or have a properly-sized egress window that can be opened from the inside without the use of keys, tools, hardware or special knowledge (unless this bedroom has a sprinkler system installed).

Ontario Building Code article 9.7.1.2. establishes the general requirement that all bedrooms must have at least one window that is large enough to be used as an exit in an emergency. The specific requirements are as follows:

  1. Except where the suite has a sprinkler, each bedroom or combination bedroom shall have at least one outside window or exterior door operable from the inside without the use of key, tools or special knowledge and without the removal of sashes or hardware.
  2. The window referred to in Sentence (1) shall provide and unobstructed opening of not less than 0.35 m² (542 in² or 3.8 ft²) in area with no dimension less than 380 mm (15 inches), and maintain the required opening during an emergency without the need for additional support.
  3. If the window referred to in Sentence (1) is provided with security bars, the security bars shall be operable from the inside without the use of any tools or special knowledge.

If a window well is required, it must be out from the window at least 550mm (about 22″) to provide safe passage. Awning style windows for example opening into a window well typically won’t work because they tend to obstruct clear passage unless the window well is unusually large.

It is further recommended that the bottom of any egress window opening or sill not be higher than 1.5m (5 feet) above the floor. Now this can be somewhat challenging for any bedroom in a basement, so some means of built-in furniture below the window to assist in the event of an emergency is required.

Egress Windows or Doors for Bedrooms (9.9.10.1)

  1. Except where a door on the same floor level as the bedroom provides direct access to the exterior, every floor level containing a bedroom in a suite shall be provided with at least one outside window that,
    1. is openable from the inside without the use of tools,
    2. provides an individual, unobstructed open portion having a minimum area of 0.35 m² (3.8 ft²) with no dimension less than 380 mm (15 inches), and
    3. maintains the required opening described in Clause (b) without the need for additional support.
  2. Except for basement areas, the window required in Sentence (1) shall have a maximum sill height of 1,000 mm (39 inches) above the floor.
  3. When sliding windows are used, the minimum dimension described in Sentence (1) shall apply to the openable portion of the window.
  4. Where the sleeping area within a live/work unit is on a mezzanine with no obstructions more than 1,070 mm above the floor, the window required in Sentence (1) may be provided on the main level of the live/work unit provided the mezzanine is not more than 25% of the area of the live/work unit or 20 m², whichever is less, and an unobstructed direct path of travel is provided from the mezzanine to this window.
  5. Where a window required in Sentence (1) opens into a window well, a clearance of not less than 550 mm (22 inches) shall be provided in front of the window.
  6. Where the sash of a window referred to in Sentence (5) swings towards the window well, the operation of the sash shall not reduce the clearance in a manner that would restrict escape in an emergency.
  7. Where a protective enclosure is installed over the window well referred to in Sentence (5), such enclosure shall be openable from the inside without the use of keys, tools or special knowledge of the opening mechanism.

The required window size for egress is the same between the National Building Code and the Ontario Building code. Window well requirements are the same as well.

The NBCC details specific size requirements as:

Windows referred to above shall provide unobstructed openings with areas not less than 0.35 m2 (3.8ft2), with no dimension less than 380 mm (15 in.). To ensure the unobstructed opening meets these criteria, you should measure between the sashes, jambs, sills, and opening mechanisms.

The significant difference between the National and Ontario codes is that a means of egress is required for each bedroom with the National Building Code, while only one means of egress per level is required with the Ontario Building Code. Also, the National Building Code requires the sill height from the floor to be no more than 1,500 mm (59 inches), while the Ontario Building Code requires the sill height to be no more than 1,000 mm (39 inches).

Check with your Building Inspection Department

Before starting any renovation project it is always best to check with your local Building Department for required permits and drawings.  You can also obtain advice on what you can legally do or not do.  When renovating it is always better and safer to follow required practices rather than having to redo work or create an unsafe environment for your family.

This information on Basement Window Egress Requirements is brought to you by Canada’s Largest Quit Smoking Directory.

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WETT Inspection Barrie is available 7 days a week for your convenience.  Call Roger today  705-795-8255

Wett Certified for Over 20 Years

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TSSA Above Ground Fuel Tanks

Property owners have a legal responsibility to maintain fuel oil storage tanks and to clean up any leaks or spills that may occur, whether the fuel oil tanks are situated underground, in a basement or above ground. Fuel oil leaks and spills can cause significant environmental damage and the costs to clean up contaminated soil and groundwater on the property and its surroundings can be extensive.

This legal responsibility and potential for legal liability has resulted in increased insurance claims made by property owners with underground fuel oil tanks. This has caused an increase in homeowners’ insurance concerns, including potential denial of coverage.

The most commonly used tanks for fuel oil are steel containers that hold about 1,000 liters of fuel. The problem with many metal fuel oil tanks is that they rust from the inside out as a result of condensation accumulation inside the tank over several years. It is difficult to tell if a tank is leaking and underground fuel oil tanks present a particular concern because of the inability to determine their condition (they are difficult to inspect) combined with the probability that they will leak (the older the tank; the stronger the likelihood that it will leak).

Fuel Oil Regulations and Codes

Ontario has strict regulations and codes governing the handling and storage of fuel oil that require registration of all existing underground fuel oil tanks and dictate their removal or upgrading according to a phased in four year schedule based on the age of the tank.

All underground fuel tank systems that have not been used for two or more years (and no longer intended to be used), must be removed, no matter what the age. Furthermore, all underground tanks over 5,000 liters are required to be leak tested annually (at least monthly, when level 2 or level 1 leak detection is used).

All existing above ground and underground fuel oil tank systems are required to undergo annual maintenance (maintenance should also be in accordance with manufacturer’s instructions) and to have a comprehensive inspection at least once every ten years. The handling and storage of fuel oil is governed under the Technical Standards and Safety Act – Ontario Regulation 213/01 (“Fuel Oil Regulation”), and administered under the Ontario Installation Code for Oil Burning Equipment I (Based on CSA B139, with Ontario Amendments), Edition/2006 (“Ontario Fuel Oil Code”).

The Fuel Oil Regulation defines two types of fuel oil storage tanks and a tank system:

Above ground tank – “means a tank that is installed at or above grade level within a building or within a secondary containment, but does not include a tank that is in direct contact with backfill material”. Free standing fuel oil tanks in basements that are not in direct contact with backfill material are considered, by the TSSA, as above ground tanks.

Underground tank – “means a buried tank or partially buried tank that is in direct contact with earth or backfill”. The TSSA does not consider fuel oil tanks that are in basements to be underground tanks unless they are in direct contact with backfill material. Tank system – “means an above ground or underground tank, and includes all piping, valves, fittings, pumps and other equipment associated with the tank”.

Underground Fuel Oil Tanks

Under the Fuel Oil Regulation fuel oil distributors cannot supply fuel oil to an underground tank unless the tank is registered with the TSSA. This requirement has been in effect since May 1, 2002. There is no charge for registering an underground fuel oil tank and the application form (Application for an Ontario Registration to Operate/Install and Underground Fuel Oil Tank, Form No. 09143) is available by calling the TSSA 416-734-3300 or toll free at 1-877-682-8772 or online through the TSSA at http://www.tssa.org/regulated/fuels/fuelsForms.asp.Once the application form is processed, the applicant will receive a registration number from the TSSA. The registration number can then be provided to the fuel oil distributor, to ensure an uninterrupted supply of fuel oil.

Deadlines for Removal or Upgrade of Underground Fuel Oil Tank Systems

The requirements for removal or upgrade of underground fuel oil tank systems are set under the Ontario Fuel Oil Code. Removal – All existing single-wall steel underground tank systems that are 25 years old and more as of October 1, 2001, or of unknown age, and not cathodically protected, are required to be withdrawn from service and removed. All underground fuel tank systems that have not been used for two or more years (and no longer intended to be used), must be removed, no matter what the age. However, where removal of the tank is not feasible an application for Variance may be made to the TSSA.

Removal or upgrade – There are specific dates set by the Ontario Fuel Oil Code when underground fuel oil tank systems are required to be removed or upgraded based on the age of the tank, and outlined below:

Schedule for Upgrading Existing Underground Tank Systems:

Deadline to Remove or Upgrade*

Age of Tank

25 years and more, or unknown                 October 1, 2006

20-24   years                                              October 1, 2007

10-19    years                                             October 1, 2008

0-9       years                                              October 1, 2009

* Upgrade includes adding approved leak detection, corrosion protection, spill containment, and overfill protection device.

Requirements for Removal of Underground Fuel Oil Tank Systems

Property owners are responsible for the costs of removing their underground fuel oil tank. The removal must be performed by a TSSA registered fuel oil contractor holding a Petroleum Equipment Mechanic 2 (PM-2) license. The TSSA must be notified once the underground tank has been removed and the property owner must have an environmental assessment report completed by a Professional Engineer, a Professional Geoscientist, a Professional Agrologist, or a Chartered Chemist. If a leak of fuel oil is confirmed, the Spills Action Center of the Ministry of the Environment must be notified of the leak and the property owner is responsible for the cost of the required clean up of contamination.

•A list of TSSA registered fuel oil contractors located in various municipalities can be found at: http://www.tssa.org/regulated/fuels/heating/heatingcontractors/

•To find a PM-2 Contractor in a specific municipality, contact the Ontario Petroleum Contractors’ Association (OPCA) at www.opcaonline.org or Phone: (705) 735-9437 or Toll Free: 1-866-360-6722

•To report a spill contact Spills Action Centre of the Ministry of the Environment at Phone: 416-325-3000 or Toll Free: 1-800-268-6060

Requirements for Upgrading Underground Fuel Oil Tank Systems

Some underground fuel oil tank systems may require an entirely new system in order to conform to the Ontario Fuel Oil Code; others may only need specific upgrades to the corrosion protection, overfill protection, spill containment’s, added leak detection, etc. Underground fuel oil tank systems that are not removed must be upgraded with approved overfill protection, corrosion protection, spill containment and leak detection. Prior to upgrading, an underground steel tank must be subjected to a precision leak test.

Application for Variance for Underground Fuel Oil Tank

The TSSA will consider an application for “Variance for abandonment of an underground fuel tank in place” where removal of an underground tank is not feasible due to certain circumstances, such as a structural consideration. An example of a structural consideration is where an underground tank is situated such that its removal would cause collapse of a retaining wall of a house.

However, the TSSA does not consider an underground tank situated beneath a driveway, back yard, front lawn, or garage, etc. to be a structural consideration. The Variance application process normally takes several weeks because it involves extensive review and research by the TSSA in order to determine whether the tank must be removed or it can remain in place, with conditions. The process begins with completion of the Variance Application (Application for a Variance/Deviation, Form No. 09533) and submission of the application fee and an environmental assessment report to the Environmental Services office of theTSSA. Further information, including the Variance Application form,”Environmental Info Sheet” and fee information can be found at http://www.tssa.org/regulated/fuels/environment/fuelsEnviron04.asp

Above Ground Fuel Oil Tanks

There are no age limit considerations specified in the code or regulation requirements to dictate the replacement of above ground tanks, provided the tank is not leaking.

An existing above ground tank is considered, by the TSSA, as “approved” provided the tank was installed in accordance with the Ontario Fuel Oil Code that was applicable at the time of

Rusted-Oil-Tank---TSSA-Inspection
Oil Tank Will Not Pass Inspection

installation. If an above ground tank is not being used, the tank and all associated piping of fluid content must be emptied and vapour-free; but it does not have to be removed unless the tank is of a capacity greater than 2,500 litres and unused for more than 3 years.

If an above ground fuel oil tank is removed, the TSSA must be notified; an assessment report must be completed setting out the extent of any fuel that has escaped to the surrounding environment; and any contamination must be cleaned up.

Annual Maintenance

All existing above ground and underground fuel oil storage tank systems are required to undergo annual maintenance (unless otherwise specified by manufacturer’s instructions), performed by a TSSA certified oil burner technician (OBT); otherwise fuel oil distributors cannot supply fuel oil. Such services include visually inspecting the tank system for leaks and testing and servicing the oil burning equipment to ensure it is operating properly. It is the property owner’s responsibility to arrange for an inspection.

Leak test – When level 2 or level 1 leak detection is used, a leak test shall be conducted at least monthly.

Comprehensive inspection – All existing fuel oil storage tanks (above ground and underground) and associated appliances (furnace, boiler, water heater, etc.) are required to undergo a comprehensive inspection by a TSSA certified oil burner technician at least once every 10 years, otherwise fuel oil distributors cannot supply fuel oil. Furthermore, a fuel oil distributor is required to prepare a report of each inspection made and retain the report until the next inspection and report are completed. Due to the large number of inspections that were required to be completed by fuel oil distributors, the TSSA approved the following deadlines for comprehensive inspections (from page 2 of the TSSA Update (Fuels Safety Edition) Spring 2006

May 1, 2004 – all fuel oil distributors required all new customers to undergo an immediate comprehensive inspection

May 1, 2006 – certain groups of fuel oil distributors required existing customers to undergo a comprehensive inspection

May 1, 2007 – all systems that previously underwent a basic inspection are required to undergo a follow up comprehensive inspection by May 1, 2007.If “unacceptable conditions” are found and there is an “immediate hazard”, the fuel oil distributor is required to immediately cease supplying fuel oil and to take such steps as are reasonable in the circumstances to shut off the supply of oil to the tank facility, system or appliance. If “unacceptable conditions” are found and they do not pose an “immediate hazard”, the fuel oil distributor may supply fuel oil provided that the owner of the property takes corrective actions, up to 90 days of receiving notice, to conform to the Code (Section 24 of the Fuel Oil Regulation). However, due to the high number of “unacceptable conditions” being found and the resulting backlog in correcting such conditions, the TSSA extended the 90 day time period to 365 days provided that a variance has been granted to extend the deadline – (TSSA Advisory, ref. no. FS-05505, dated November 8, 2005 )

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