Prepare Your Home for Old Man Winter and save Energy & Money
Everyone puts off those last minute maintenance chores until the weather turns cold. We are bringing you a list of items that will make the transition into winter mode that much easier.
Heating
Having your furnace inspected and is operating at peak efficiency is a wise investment. Typical cost for a technician to inspect and clean your furnace is around $80 to $100.00. This is a small price to pay to avoid a costly repair on the coldest day of the year when your furnace won’t start. Change your furnace filter every 30 days or so, if you have animals who shed hair a more frequent replacement might be required.
Check or have your chimney checked for any cracks, missing brick or mortar or loose rain cap. The freezing thawing action of water penetrating small cracks can do a lot of damage over the winter season. If you have a wood burning fireplace you should consider having it cleaned prior to use and have the flue tiles inspected for any cracks or deficiencies.
If you have ceiling fans now is a good time to clean the dust and lint off the blades and reverse direction of motor. Forcing the warm air down will make your living area feel much more cosy.
Windows & Doors
Clean your windows and doors inside and out. This is a great time to check your seals and exterior caulking. Ensuring your seams on brick and concrete window sills are not open can save you a lot of money on needless repairs later on. Water can enter your exposed seams cracking mortar and eventually damaging the brick below. This “spalling” as it is known, happens when clay style brick absorbs moisture, which then freezes and blows off part of the brick surface.
Check all your door closures to ensure they all operate smoothly. Screen doors should have glass panels lowered or installed on older models. Basement windows screens in window wells are susceptible to damage from rodents and other small animals. Screens should be removed and stored for the winter. Replace any damaged door seals or sweeps to prevent drafts from entering home during the cold months. Operate your garage doors and lightly grease track for smoother and quieter operation.
Roofs & Gutters
Inspect your roofs shingles for any damaged or missing tabs. Pay close attention to any flashings on walls or chimneys to ensure that they are completely sealed. Caulk any suspect areas to be doubly sure of preventing any roof leaks. Clean out any debris in gutters and ensure your downspouts and extensions are in good condition. If you have an older home using heating cables for eaves or downspouts, now is a good time to ensure that they are in good working order. Put away your rain barrels and ensure your splash pads and extensions are directing water away from your home.
Plumbing
Drain all your exterior water lines to prevent freezing. I personally always leave the exterior tap open and have never had a freeze up problem. If you have hose reels installed, now is a good time to store them after draining out the water. On older homes with crawlspaces now is a good time to close ventilation vents and cover with insulation in preparation for winter. Any in ground sprinkler lines should have already been blown out by your sprinkler maintenance company, if not call them immediately.
Wrapping your hot water tank and hot water lines with a insulation can save you money all year long. Check your sump pump by either lifting float or pouring water into unit to ensure it is in operating condition.
Check Smoke Alarms and Carbon Monoxide Detectors
Fire departments recommend replacing the batteries in smoke alarms twice a year, and if your smoke alarm is between 5 and 10 years old, replace it with a new one. There should be at least one smoke alarm on every level of your house and one within 5 m of each bedroom. In Ontario this is the law and homeowners can be fined for non-compliance. Smoke detector information
Drafts & Air Leaks
Energy experts estimate about 30% of the heat in your home is lost to leaks and drafts. Adding foam seals to exterior wall outlets can stop and lot of heat loss. Check any penetrations on the exterior wall of your house and seal any gaps with caulking, this stops both cold air and moisture from entering your home. Check you interior for leaks and missing insulation at penetrations. Most contractors will not replace your vapour barrier or insulation when they install electrical or heating vents. Replacing insulation and re-sealing vapour barrier can save a lot of heat loss over the course of a winter.
Equipment
Change your oil in lawnmowers and any other lawn maintenance equipment and add some fuel stabilizer prior to storing for the season. Get your snowblower out and ready to go. Check oil and top up the tank with fresh fuel prior to starting. Grease all fittings and check for loose fittings or bolts. Put away the rakes and grass trimmer and get out the shovels and ice choppers. Ensure you have adequate supply of salt or sand for sidewalks.
Masonry Blocks and Mortar Explained. One of the most common masonry units is the concrete block. It consists of hardened cement and may be completely solid or contain single or multiple hollows. It is made from conventional cement mixes and various types of aggregate. These include sand, gravel, crushed stone, air-cooled slag, coal cinders, expanded shale or clay, expanded slag, volcanic cinders (pozzolan), pumice, and “scotia” (refuse obtained from metal ore reduction and smelting). The term “concrete block” was formerly limited to only hollow masonry units made with such aggregates as sand, gravel, and crushed stone. Today, the term covers all types of concrete block-both hollow and solid—made with any kind of aggregate. Concrete blocks are also available with applied glazed surfaces, various pierced designs, and a wide variety of surface textures. Although concrete block is made in many sizes and shapes (figure 8-4) and in both modular and nonmodular dimensions, its most common unit size is 7 5/8 by 7 5/8 by 15 5/8 inches. This size is known as 8-by-8-by- 16-inch block nominal size. All concrete block must meet certain specifications covering size, type, weight, moisture content, compressive strength, and other characteristics. Properly designed and constructed, concrete masonry walls satisfy many building requirements, including fire prevention, safety, durability, economy, appearance, utility, comfort, and acoustics. Figure 8-4.-Typical unit sizes and shapes of concrete masonry units. Concrete blocks are used in all types of masonry construction. The following are just a few of many examples:
- Exterior load-bearing walls (both below and above grade)
- Interior load-bearing walls
- Fire walls and curtain walls
- Partitions and panel walks
- Backing for brick, stone, and other facings; Fireproofing over structural members
- Fire safe walls around stairwells, elevators, and enclosures
- Piers and columns; Retaining walls
- Chimneys
- Concrete floor units
There are five main types of concrete masonry units:
- Hollow load-bearing concrete block
- Solid load-bearing concrete block
- Hollow nonload-bearing concrete block
- Concrete building tile
- Concrete brick
Load-bearing blocks are available in two grades: N and S. Grade N is for general use, such as exterior walls both above and below grade that may or may not be exposed to moisture penetration or weather. Both grades are also used for backup and interior walls. Grade S is for above-grade exterior walls with a weather-protective coating and for interior walls. The grades are further subdivided into two types. Type I consists of moisture-controlled units for use in arid climates. Type II consists of nonmoisturecontrolled units. Figure 8-4.-Typical unit sizes and shapes of concrete masonry units—Continued. BLOCK SIZES AND SHAPES Concrete masonry units are available in many sizes and shapes to tit different construction needs. Both full- and half-length sizes are shown in figure 8-4. Because concrete block sizes usually refer to nominal dimensions, a unit actually measuring 7 5/8-by-7 5/8-by-15 5/8-inches is called an 8-by-8-by-16-inch block. When laid with 3/8-inch mortar joints, the unit should occupy a space exactly 8-by-8-by- 16 inches. ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) specifications define a solid concrete block as having a core area not more than 25 percent of the gross cross-sectional area. Most concrete bricks are solid and sometimes have a recessed surface like the frogged brick shown in figure 8-4. In contrast, a hollow concrete block has a core area greater than 25 percent of its gross cross-sectional area-generally 40 percent to 50 percent. Blocks are considered heavyweight or lightweight, depending on the aggregate used in their production. A hollow load-bearing concrete block 8-by-8-by- 16-inches nominal size weighs from 40 to 50 pounds when made with heavyweight aggregate, such as sand, gravel, crushed stone, or air-cooled slag. The same size block weighs only 25 to 35 pounds when made with coal cinders, expanded shale, clay, slag, volcanic cinders, or pumice. The choice of blocks depends on both the availability and requirements of the intended structure. Blocks may be cut with a chisel. However, it is more convenient and accurate to use a power-driven masonry saw (figure 8-5). Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s manual for operation and maintenance, As with all electrically powered equipment, follow all safety guidelines. Figure 8-5.-Masonry saw. BLOCK MORTAR JOINTS The sides and the recessed ends of a concrete block are called the shell. The material that forms the partitions between the cores is called the web. Each of the long sides of a block is called a face shell. Each of the recessed ends is called an end shell. The vertical ends of the face shells, on either side of the end shells, are called the edges. Bed joints on first courses and bed joints in column construction are mortared by spreading a 1-inch layer of mortar. This procedure is referred to as “full mortar bedding.” For most other bed joints, only the upper edges of the face shells need to be mortared. This is referred to as “face shell mortar bedding.” Head joints may be mortared by buttering both edges of the block being laid or by buttering one edge on the block being laid and the opposite edge on the block already in place. MASONRY MORTAR Properly mixed and applied mortar is necessary for good workmanship and good masonry service because it must bond the masonry units into a strong, well-knit structure. The mortar that bonds concrete block, brick, or clay tile will be the weakest part of the masonry unless you mix and apply it properly. When masonry leaks, it is usually through the joints. Both the strength of masonry and its resistance to rain penetration depend largely on the strength of the bond between the masonry unit and the mortar. Various factors affect bond strength, including the type and quantity of the mortar, its plasticity and workability, its water retentivity, the surface texture of the mortar bed, and the quality of workmanship in laying the units. You can correct irregular brick dimensions and shape with a good mortar joint. Workability of Mortar Mortar must be plastic enough to work with a trowel. You obtain good plasticity and workability by using mortar having good water retentivity, using the proper grade of sand, and thorough mixing. You do not obtain good plasticity by using a lot of cementitious materials. Mortar properties depend largely upon the type of sand it contains. Clean, sharp sand produces excellent mortar, but too much sand causes mortar to segregate, drop off the trowel, and weather poorly. Water Retentivity Water retentivity is the mortar property that resists rapid loss of water to highly absorbent masonry units. Mortar must have water to develop the bond. If it does not contain enough water, the mortar will have poor plasticity and workability, and the bond will be weak and spotty. Sometimes, you must wet brick to control water absorption before applying mortar, but never wet concrete masonry units. Mortar Strength and Durability The type of service that the masonry must give determines the strength and durability requirements of mortar. For example, walls subject to severe stress or weathering must be laid with more durable, stronger mortar than walls for ordinary service. Table 8-1 gives mortar mix proportions that provide adequate mortar strength and durability for the conditions listed. Table 8-1.-Recommended Mortar Mix Proportions by Unit Volume Types of Mortar The following mortar types are proportioned on a volume basis:
Type M— One part portland cement, one-fourth part hydrated lime or lime putty, and three parts sand; or, one part portland cement, one part type II masonry cement, and six parts sand. Type M mortar is suitable for general use, but is recommended specifically for below-grade masonry that contacts earth, such as foundations, retaining walls, and walks. Type S— One part portland cement, one-half part hydrated lime or lime putty, and four and one-half parts sand; or, one-half part portland cement, one part type II masonry cement, and four and one-half parts sand. Type S mortar is also suitable for general use, but is recommended where high resistance to lateral forces is required.
Type N— One part portland cement, one part hydrated lime or lime putty, and six parts sand; or, one part type II masonry cement and three parts sand. Type N mortar is suitable for general use in above-grade exposed masonry where high compressive or lateral strength is not required. Type O— One part portland cement, two parts hydrated lime or lime putty, and nine parts sand; or, one part type I or type II masonry cement and three parts sand. Type O mortar is recommended for load-bearing, solid-unit walls when the compressive stresses do not exceed 100 pounds per square inch (psi) and the masonry is not subject to freezing and thawing in the presence of a lot of moisture.
MIXING MORTAR The manner in which mortar is mixed has a lot to do with the quality of the final product. In addition to machine and hand mixing, you need to know the requirements for introducing various additives, including water, to the mix in order to achieve optimum results. Machine Mixing Machine mixing refers to mixing large quantities of mortar in a drum-type mixer. Place all dry ingredients in the mixer first and mix them for 1 minute before adding the water. When adding water, you should always add it slowly. Minimum mixing time is 3 minutes. The mortar should be mixed until a completely uniform mixture is obtained. Hand Mixing Hand mixing involves mixing small amounts of mortar by hand in a mortar box or wheelbarrow. Take care to mix all ingredients thoroughly to obtain a uniform mixture. As in machine mixing, mix all dry materials together first before adding water. Keep a steel drum of water close at hand to use as the water supply. You should also keep all your masonry tools free of hardened mortar mix and dirt by immersing them in water when not in use. Requirements You occasionally need to mix lime putty with mortar. When machine mixing, use a pail to measure the lime putty. Place the putty on top of the sand. When hand mixing, add the sand to the lime putty. Wet pails before filling them with mortar and clean them immediately after emptying. Mixing water for mortar must meet the same quality requirements as mixing water for concrete. Do not use water containing large amounts of dissolved salts. Salts weaken the mortars. You can restore the workability of any mortar that stiffens on the mortar board due to evaporation by remixing it thoroughly. Add water as necessary, but discard any mortar stiffened by initial setting. Because it is difficult to determine the cause of stiffening, a practical guide is to use mortar within 2 1/2 hours after the original mixing. Discard any mortar you do not use within this time. Do not use an antifreeze admixture to lower the freezing pint of mortars during winter construction. The quantity necessary to lower the freezing point to any appreciable degree is so large it will seriously impair the strength and other desirable properties of the mortar. Do not add more than 2-percent calcium chloride (an accelerator) by weight of cement to mortar to accelerate its hardening rate and increase its early strength. Do not add more than 1-percent calcium chloride to masonry cements. Make a trial mix to find the percentage of calcium chloride that gives the desired hardening rate. Calcium chloride should not be used for steel-reinforced masonry. You can also obtain high early strength in mortars with high-early-strength portland cement. MODULAR PLANNING Concrete masonry walls should be laid out to make maximum use of full- and half-length units. This minimizes cutting and fitting of units on the job. Length and height of walls, width and height of openings, and wall areas between doors, windows, and corners should be planned to use full-size and half-size units, which are usually available (figure 8-6). This procedure assumes that window and door frames are of modular dimensions which fit modular full- and half-size units. Then, all horizontal dimensions should be in multiples of nominal full-length masonry units. Figure 8-6.-Planning concrete masonry wall openings. Both horizontal and vertical dimensions should be designed to be in multiples of 8 inches. Table 8-2 lists nominal length of concrete masonry walls by stretchers. Table 8-3 lists nominal height of concrete masonry walls by courses. When 8-by-4-by-16 units are used, the horizontal dimensions should be planned in multiples of 8 inches (half-length units) and the vertical dimensions in multiples of 4 inches. If the thickness of the wall is greater or less than the length of a half unit, a special-length unit is required at each corner in each course. Table 8-4 lists the average number of concrete masonry units by size and approximate number of cubic feet of mortar required for every 100 square feet of concrete masonry wall. Table 8-5 lists the number of 16-inch blocks per course for any wall. Table 8-2.-Nominal Lengths of Concrete Masonry Walls in Stretchers Table 8-3.-Nominal Heights of Modular Concrete Masonry Walls in Courses Table 8-4.-Average Concrete Masonry Units and Mortar per 100 sq. ft. of Wall Table 8-5.-Number of 16-Inch Blocks per Course You should always use outside measurements when calculating the number of blocks required per course. For example, a basement 22 feet by 32 feet should require 79 blocks for one complete course. Multiply 79 by the number of courses needed. Thus, a one-course basement requires a total of 790 blocks for a solid wall, from which deductions should be made for windows and doors. If any dimension is an odd number, use the nearest smaller size listed in the table. For example, for a 22-foot by 31-foot enclosure, use 22 feet by 30 feet and add one-half block per row. As a Builder, you might find yourself in the field without the tables handy, so here is another method. Use 3/4 times the length and 3/2 times the height for figuring how many 8-by-8-by-16-inch blocks you need for a wall. Let’s take an example: Given: A wall 20 ft long x 8 ft high
3/4 x 20 = 60 + 4 = 15 (8″ x 8″ x 16″ block per course) 3/2 x 8 = 24 ÷ 2 = 12 courses high 15 x 12 = 180 total blocks
ESTIMATING MORTAR You can use “rule 38” for calculating the raw material needed to mix 1 yard of mortar without a great deal of paperwork. This rule does not, however, accurately calculate the required raw materials for large masonry construction jobs. For larger jobs, use the absolute volume or weight formula. In most cases, though, and particularly in advanced base construction, you can use rule 38 to quickly estimate the quantities of the required raw materials. Builders have found that it takes about 38 cubic feet of raw materials to make 1 cubic yard of mortar. In using rule 38 for calculating mortar, take the rule number and divide it by the sum of the quantity figures specified in the mix. For example, let’s assume that the building specifications call for a 1:3 mix for mortar, 1 + 3 = 4. Since 38 ÷ 4 = 9½, you’ll need 9½ sacks, or 9½ cubic feet, of cement. To calculate the amount of fine aggregate (sand), you multiply 9½ by 3. The product (28½ cubic feet) is the amount of sand you need to mix 1 cubic yard of mortar using a 1:3 mix. The sum of the two required quantities should always equal 38. This is how you can check whether you are using the correct amounts. In the above example, 9½ sacks of cement plus 28½ cubic feet of sand equal 38. SAFE HANDLING OF MATERIAL When you handle cement or lime bags, wear goggles and snug-fitting neckbands and wristbands. Always practice good personal cleanliness and never wear clothing that has become stiff with cement. Cement-impregnated clothing irritates the skin and may cause serious infection. Any susceptibility of the skin to cement and lime burns should be reported. Personnel who are allergic to cement or lime should be transferred to other jobs. Bags of cement or lime should not be piled more than 10 bags high on a pallet. The only exception is when storage is in bins or enclosures built for such storage. The bags around the outside of the pallet should be placed with the mouths of the bags facing the center, The first five tiers of bags each way from any corner must be cross piled. A setback starting with the sixth tier should be made to prevent piled bags from falling outward. If you have to pile bags above 10 tiers, another setback must be made. The back tier, when not resting against an interior wall of sufficient strength to withstand the pressure, should be set back one bag every five tiers, the same as the end tiers. During unpiling, the entire top of the pile should be kept level and the necessary setbacks maintained. Lime and cement must be stored in a dry place. This helps prevent lime from crumbling and the cement from hydrating before it is used.
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Maintenance Tips to Save You Money. Your Barrie ON home is one of the single biggest investments you’ll ever make in your lifetime, so be sure you do all you can to take care of it. A well-maintained home usually sells more readily and will usually bring a higher price when you go to sell your home. Regular maintenance also makes your home more comfortable and any regular care that you do put into it will minimize any unexpected repair work and expenses that could occur if your home was not maintained. Regularly scheduled small repairs and continuous upgrades to your home can and will keep any maintenance costs from becoming exorbitant.
The maintenance schedule that I’m presenting here is a general guide for you to simply follow. The actual timing is left up to you to decide when you want to actually perform the tasks. You may want to further divide the list of maintenance items for each season into months so that your everyday schedule will not become affected by this list of tasks. Now let’s get to work, so your home (and the components within your home) will last a lifetime.
WINTER
Clean or replace furnace air filters every other month during the heating season. Periodically check vents outside (intake and exhaust) to make sure they are not blocked by snow or debris. Then vacuum all heating supply registers, return grills, baseboards or radiators inside the home.
After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. (Caution: This test may release hot water that can cause burns and it may also cause the valve to develop a slow leak due to sediment build-up not allowing the valve to close fully. This will require a plumber to replace the TPR valve). In some areas, sludge may accumulate in the bottom of the tank. Draining approximately 1 gallon of water from the clean-out spigot at the bottom of your tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity for regular draining to control sediment and maintain efficiency. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply before draining any water from the tank.
Clean the humidifier (if equipped), two or three times during the winter season.
Vacuum bathroom fan grille or any other registers you may have in your home. I recommend removing the register grills and vacuuming inside the duct work, (as far as possible). Vacuum all fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning. Dust ceiling fan blades.
Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean the drip tray underneath the refrigerator.
Check inside bathroom vanities and kitchen sink cabinets for signs of moisture. Look for leaks at shut-off valves at sinks, toilets, laundry equipment, and main water shut-off valve. Carefully inspect pipes for condensation or slow drips. Repair the plumbing system if necessary.
Remove mineral deposits from faucet aerators and shower heads by soaking the parts in white vinegar and scrubbing them with an old toothbrush.
Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or ice build-up. If either of these occur, this is a sign of inadequate insulation and/or ventilation.
Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety: if worn, or plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately. Check the operation of all ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets by pushing the “test” button. The “reset” button should pop out, indicating the receptacle is operating properly. Press in the reset button. Check the AFCI circuit breakers inside the main panel. Press the test button to make sure it trips. Then reset.
FALL
Have all heating and cooling systems checked by a qualified service person once a year or according to the manufacturer’s warranty and service recommendations. Failure to do manufacturer-recommended servicing may void warranties.
FURNACE: Examine the forced air furnace fan belt for wear, looseness or noise; clean fan blades of any dirt buildup (after disconnecting the electricity to the motor). Then clean dirt and dust from around the air grills and ducts. Open furnace humidifier damper and clean humidifier (if equipped). Hire a licensed HVAC technician to inspect the thermostat, electrical components and controls, inspect the heat exchanger, check flue, air flow and air fuel mixture, adjust the burner and oil the motor and circulating fan. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose or corroded sections. Have your ducts cleaned at least every 5 to 6 years, this keeps your furnace clean and will increase the life expectancy. Make sure the exposed ductwork have no cracks or leaks and seal seams (where needed) with aluminum tape.
BOILER: Bleed the air from hot water radiators. Older circulating pumps should be lubricated twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained annually. The heat shield (located where the burner enters the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield or soot on the front may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.
OIL FURNACES AND BOILERS: Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should be contacted. The exhaust pipe from the furnace or boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections. The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely. The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The oil tank should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.
Paint interior rooms while it’s still warm enough to leave windows open. Ditto for shampooing or replacing carpets.
Remove window air-conditioning units and store them. If they are not removable, cover them with plastic to protect them over the winter.
Check smooth functioning of all windows and lubricate as required. For single pane widows, remove or replace all screens with storm windows. Examine all hardware and locks on windows and doors, and lubricate moving parts. Each exterior door should have a one-inch deadbolt lock for safety.
All yard care power equipment should be drained of fuel in the late fall or early winter and serviced according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Cover outdoor furniture or store it inside a shed.
Clean and repair garden equipment after the last use of the season. Remove dirt and rust, then store in dry area. Upcoming winter will be a good time to file rough spots on hoes and shovels and to apply linseed oil to handles of garden tools. Thoroughly rinse pesticide and herbicide sprayers to prevent clogging, and rinse fertilizer spreaders to prevent corrosion.
Drain and store outdoor hoses. Close the valve supplying the outdoor hose connection and drain the hose bib (exterior faucet), unless your house contains frost proof hose bibs.
Ensure that all smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers are in good working order. Replace batteries in appropriate devices as needed, or at least twice each year. Massachusetts regulations require detectors to be installed on every habitable level of your home and within 10 feet of any bedroom.
Check gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.
Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of your house; ensure that your family has good security habits.
Again, Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or oil if necessary.
Take care of known issues with pipes that freeze. Heat tape/wire can be used to keep them warm during extremely cold weather or insulate to improve freezing conditions.
Ensure that all doors to the outside shut tightly, and check other doors for ease of use. Renew door weatherstripping if required. If there is a door between your house and the garage, install or check the adjustment of the self-closing device to ensure it closes the door completely.
Disconnect the duct connected to the dryer and vacuum lint from duct, the areas surrounding your clothes dryer and your dryers’ vent hood outside.
Ensure that all windows and skylights close tightly. Remove screens from the inside of casement windows to allow air from the heating system to keep condensation off window glass.
Again, Clean leaves from eaves troughs (gutters) and roofs, and test downspouts to ensure proper drainage from the roof. Ensure that these downspouts carry all rain water away from the foundation area at least 5 feet. Downspout extensions will improve any basement seepage conditions.
Check chimneys for obstructions such as nests. Have your wood burning fireplaces and appliances inspected annually and cleaned/swept and repaired as required to prevent chimney fires and carbon monoxide poisoning.
SPRING
Celebrate spring by cleaning the garage. Hold a yard sale, or organize a community yard sale with neighbors. Dispose of paint thinners, household cleaners and pesticides properly. Contact your city’s department of public works to find out when the next scheduled collection of hazardous materials is.
Check and clean or replace furnace air filter.
Shut down and clean furnace humidifier (if applicable), and close the furnace humidifier damper, as this will not be needed until next heating season.
Have central air-conditioning unit checked according to the recommendations of the unit’s manufacturer or every two or three years. Replace the filter in the forced-air system. Clean debris and vegetation from the exterior condenser or heat pump.
Check dehumidifier and clean if necessary (if applicable).
Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.
Have well water tested for quality (if applicable). It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.
If you are on a Septic system, have it pumped and inspected.
Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms and replace batteries.
Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens, if equipped with single pane windows. Check the windows for cracked or broken glass, loose putty around the glass panes, holes or bent frames in screens, and evidence of moisture between pane and storm windows. Clean out any slider door tracks and ensure that the drainage holes are clear.
Fix squeaks in floors and stairs by applying weight to the area (having a partner stand on it) and driving an 8d or 12d galvanized finish nail through the flooring into a floor joist or stringer. If you have access to the floor from underneath, glue and screw backs to the floor or treads and toenail through a floor joist or stringer.
Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.
Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required.
Check to make sure your sump pump works properly by pouring water into the pump silo to raise the float and activate the motor. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation and inspect the hose line for obstructions or visible leaks.
Re-level or repair any exterior steps or decks which moved or were damaged due to winter frost or settling.
Check for damaged or improperly sloped gutters. Clean out all gutters and downspouts. Make sure they are free from leaks and rust and ensure all spikes, straps and clips are tightly fastened. Seal any loose joints and seams. Make sure downspouts are not damaged and carry all roof water at least five feet away from the foundation. Downspout extensions will improve any basement seepage conditions.
Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.
Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.
SUMMER
Inspect window putty on the outside of glass (single panes) and replace if cracking or falling off.
Lubricate all door hinges and tighten screws as needed. Lubricate squeaky door hinges with lightweight machine oil. Free sticky doors by trimming edges or shimming hinges with thin pieces of cardboard.
Deep clean all carpets and rugs.
Check caulking around all sinks, bathtubs, and showers. Some types of caulking become brittle with age, and therefore useless as a water seal. Replace with a long-lasting resilient caulking material, such as silicone or latex.
Vacuum bathroom fan grille.
Monitor basement humidity and avoid relative humidity levels above 60 per cent. Use a dehumidifier to maintain safe relative humidity. Clean or replace air conditioning filter, and wash or replace ventilation system filters if necessary.
Inspect the crawl space or basement walls after rains for water accumulation or excessive moisture. Look for signs of water damage on the sub floor and joists beneath bathrooms, the kitchen and laundry. Find and fix leaks now or pay the price later.
Check basement pipes for condensation or dripping, and take corrective action, for example, reduce humidity and or fully insulate all accessible cold water pipes.
Examine main support beams, support columns, and floor joists for evidence of bowing or warping.
Probe visible wood structural members such as sills, joists, beams, and columns, with a screwdriver, pocket knife or ice pick, to be sure wood is solid and free from decay and wood boring insects.
Make sure all shut-offs are marked appropriately (heating, plumbing & electrical)
If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, for example, a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap. This prevents sewer gases from entering the living area. You can use cooking oil to replace water, as it will not evaporate like water will.
Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water or oil if necessary.
Check security of all guardrails and handrails throughout house (interior and exterior). Install brackets or hardware if loose.
Lubricate garage door hardware and ensure that it is operating properly and lubricate the automatic garage door opener motor, chain, etc. and ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is properly adjusted. Make sure all bolts and screws are properly tightened and secured. I highly recommend that every homeowner install an auto-closer on the hinges of the fire rated door between the garage and the house.
Check and replace damaged caulking and weatherstripping around all exterior windows and doors.
Inspect electrical service lines for secure attachment where they enter your house, and make sure there is no water leakage into the house along the electrical conduit. Check the seal at the house penetration area.
Ensure that the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation wall, so that rain water does not drain towards your basement walls. Soil should slope four to six inches for a distance of six feet out from the foundation walls.
Inspect masonry foundation walls (inside and out) for cracks or weakened, crumbling mortar. Repair if necessary. Also check for signs of termite mud tunnels.
Check exterior wood siding and trim for signs of deterioration such as peeling or cracked paint. Remove any wood/soil contact to prevent rot and wood boring insects. Clean, replace or refinish as needed. If you decide to repaint your house yourself, you can cut this job down to size by painting just one or two walls per year. Typically, the paint on the south and west-facing walls deteriorates faster and requires more frequent re-coating than paint on north or east-facing walls. Check for and seal off any holes in exterior cladding that could be an entry point for small pests such as bats, mice, squirrels and chipmunks.
Clean and seal decks. Ideally, you’ll need three consecutive warm, sunny days. On day one, dry out the deck. Apply deck cleaner and scrub the deck on the second day and let it dry 24 hours. On the third day, apply deck sealer.
Repair and paint all fences as required.
Remove or trim any plants, shrubs or vines that contact any house siding.
Climb up on your roof or use binoculars, to check its general condition and note any sagging that could indicate structural problems requiring further investigation from inside the attic. Note the condition of roofing material for possible repair or replacement, and examine all roof flashings such as at the chimney, roof joints, vent stacks, dormers and skylights for any signs of cracking or leakage.
Check the chimney cap and the mortar between all bricks. Tuck point between the bricks if necessary.
If you have access to attic spaces, check underneath the roof for stains that indicate leaks, especially from “flashed” areas. Tar these exterior flashing areas if necessary. Also, check all soffit vents to make sure insulation is pulled away from these areas. The attic area should always be the same temperature as the outside.
Trim back tree branches that scrape against or overhang the roof. Keep branches away from chimney to avoid fire hazard and allow proper draft for safe and efficient chimney operation.
Driveways and sidewalks should be checked for cracks and deterioration. Settling which will result in surface water run off towards the house should be corrected as should uneven sections which pose a safety hazard to pedestrians.
Clean and repair cracks in concrete driveways using epoxy patching material. Repair asphalt driveways using asphalt patching material. Seal asphalt driveways every other year.
Repair any hazards that present a safety problem.
Take pictures of every room in your house. Take special care to photograph any heirlooms or valuables. In the event of fire, flood or other disaster, it will be important in filing an insurance claim. Photographs or video of your possessions can also be helpful and help proof your claim. Store this in a safe place off site…maybe a relatives home or a bank safety deposit box.
You will also have the option of receiving Season appropriate email reminders describing specific maintenance steps that you should be taking in order to keep your home in top-notch condition. You simply choose the components of your home that need maintenance and a Seasonal email reminder will be sent to you accordingly.
You can review all of your current monthly scheduled maintenance items. And if you get really excited about maintenance and want to see future maintenance activities, you can select the desired month and it will show you all upcoming tasks.
Check back often to read more interesting home improvement articles from Home Inspector
Roger Frost
Barrie Home Inspections
